Bird Training
Bird Mites
Bird Toys -
Cheap!
Feather Tether
Birds Need Toys Too!
New Bird
Molting
Escapee
Behavior
Leg Bands
Poop-Off
To
Grit or Not
Noisy Bird
Egg
Binding
Feather Picking
Feather-Clipping
Poisoning
Sexing
Your Bird
Bathing
Crusty Nose
Bird
Training
- Do you have a bird that is
like a two year old having a temper tantrum....always biting, doesn't step up,
scared, screaming or isn't social? We have found the Nanny 911 of the bird
world. Check out the website below to find useful information and a DVD on
how to develop a great relationship with your bird.
*We are
not affiliated in any way with birdtricks.com
www.birdtricks.com
Bird
Toys - Want quick
and inexpensive hours of fun for your bird?
Try using a
soda bottle filled with nuts, cheerios, fruit loops, or other treats.
Close the lid tightly so that it is difficult for them to remove. There
are all different sizes of water and soda bottles to fit the size of your
bird. Do not use sport bottle tops, they can come apart.
Cereal boxes
make for a great treasure hunt. Give your bird a new box of cheerios,
fruit loops, corn flakes, etc (use the miniature boxes for the little
birds). Watch them tear through the paper and into the treats.
Use dried
mini bagels as foot toys...even better...before drying insert nuts, then dry
making the nuts harder to remove. With larger bagels, you could slice
them, dry them and then string them along with some dried fruit on an old toy
chain or leather strip.
Use an old
tub of margarine as a treasure box. Wash the tub completely, put a hole
through the lid and the bottom (make the hole in the lid big enough so that the
lid will move easily up and down the holder), string the tub onto old leftover
toy parts such as; sisal rope, leather strip or chain (be sure to knot the
bottom so the tub will not fall off). Fill the tub with treats such as
nuts, dried fruit, millet, etc and close the lid tightly. They may be able
to get the lid off but will have to work to keep the lid open to enjoy the
treats.
For the
little guys a toilet paper roll with some left over paper to pick at is a fun
diversion. Find some raffia at your local art store...cut about ten twelve
inch long strands and tie as one around a bar in the cage for a pompom effect.
Always
supervise your bird and check your toys careful to be sure they are safe!
Bird
Mites - Have you
noticed a strange scaly or flaky appearance on your birds nostrils and
legs....or is your bird itching more than usual? If so, your bird may have
mites. There are two types of mites that may be affecting your bird.
The first mite is most common in parakeets and canaries. It is called
scaly face mites. You generally will not be able to see these mites
because they are burrowed under the skin. However, if you look closely at
the affected area, you may notice the burrowing tunnels.
The other
type of bird mite is the red mite. These are not easily seen either
because they generally feed on the bird's blood at night. When the bird
awakens, they hide in cracks and crevices. If you suspect red mites, try
leaving a white paper at the bottom of the cage and surprise them at night with
a flash light (don't frighten your bird).
The best and
quickest way to treat these mites is get a diagnosis from your vet and to give
ivermectin medication orally or by injection about every 7-10 days until cleared
up. It is important to get a series of treatments to kill any hatching
eggs and larvae.
Why Birds
Need Toys - Chewing
is an integral part of a parrot's everyday life. In the wild, parrots are
avid chewers. Nuts and wood make up a large part of their chewing
habits. It is important to support this natural instinct for a parrot in
captivity. A birds beak grows constantly throughout its life.
Chewing helps keep beaks trimmed and healthy. Birds are also very
intelligent and need constant stimulation and entertainment to be happy.
Bird toys
are meant to be destroyed! Don't be upset if your bird goes through lots
of toys...this means your bird is happy. Even softbills, which are not
avid chewers, require several swings and different sized perches to satisfy
their constant activity level.
Look for
toys made of the following:
Hard and
soft woods;
manzanita, guava wood, eucalyptus, and coconut.
Cotton or
sisal; be
sure it is a supreme cotton and cut off any loose strings to prevent
entanglement.
Acrylic;
basically hard colorful plastic toys which are indestructable.
Beads;
look for colorful and textured beads to provide interest.
Nuts;
filberts, almonds, brazil nuts, and pine nuts are treats to be taken out of
something making a game of the toy.
Leather
& Rawhide;
make sure the leather and rawhide are natural and not dyed.
Keep several
toys and rotate them every other week to keep your bird interested.
Toy
Safety - Look for
toys that have a quick link or C shaped link that attaches to the cage.
Other links are easily opened and can catch nails and beaks. All metal
chains should be welded closed to prevent beaks and nails from becoming
caught. Look for toys that are labeled by bird type. Large bird toys
are not meant for smaller birds and vice versa. Wood toys should be
natural and not treated with chemicals or dyes.
Feather
Tether - Are you
a bird owner that would love to take your bird with you wherever you go but are
too afraid of an escape attempt? All to often an tame bird that has never
left his friend's shoulder suddenly is frightened and takes flight never to be
seen again. However, you can stop this tragedy with a Feather Tether which
is actually a bird harness. Use it in the car to keep your bird from
flapping around in the car and great for any other outdoor activity such as
going for a walk, running errands, or perching for some sun and fresh air.
See the link below for more information:
http://www.claviaryonline.com/ftetherins.html

Bird
Poop-Off - Tired of the nasty
looking build-up at the bottom of your bird cage? We found a bird product
that is an organic cleaner that safely cleans those stubborn stains on the
bottom of the cage and perches. You don't even have to take your bird out
of the cage! The product contains natural enzymes that help dissolve bird
poop that is stuck on the rungs of the bottom of the cage as well as the
perch. The product comes with an applicator and brush to help scrub the
poop right off. Ask for it at your local pet store. Click on the
picture below for more information:
New Bird Introductions:
-
Talk to your
bird a lot at first so that he can get used to your voice.
-
Don't pick
up your bird for the first two days, allowing him to get used to his new
surroundings.
-
Move slowly,
no sudden movements
-
Use a quiet,
calm voice
-
Be gentle,
no squeezing or pulling
-
Don't be
afraid, your bird can sense fear and may make him nervous.
-
Understand
your bird, watch him and listen to his body language.
-
If bitten,
try to be calm with no reaction, say no firmly, do not drop or throw.
-
Make a
schedule your bird can count on for feedings, handling, and sleeping.
Try not to handle more than normal so that your bird does not expect more
when the newness has worn off.
-
Provide
patience, love, understanding and a stimulating environment.
Leg Bands - There are two types of leg bands;
Closed leg bands - Most
closed leg bands are attached on a baby at about three weeks. It is slipped over the
foot and as the leg grows, the foot becomes too large to allow the band to slip off.
It should never be so tight as to cause swelling in your birds leg. Closed
bands usually signify that a bird is captive-bred. Closed bands are the most
reliable band which cannot be substituted unless cut-off.
Open leg bands are found
on legally imported wild-caught birds. They are open to allow fitting on a fully
grown bird. Some breeders use open leg bands on their aviary birds that are caught
at adult size.
Bands come in metal or
plastic. The colored plastic bands are usually used by breeders of captive-bred
birds to differentiate between the males, females and parentage. Leg bands are an
inexpensive way to identify your bird. The other alternative is microchipping.
We feel that leg bands are
important because they provide important identifications such as proof of ownership in
cases of loss or theft, tracking and breeding histories, as well as they are required by
government regulation. Birds that are being sold without leg bands can have
questionable backgrounds such as theft and illegal entry in to the United States. It
is important to have these regulations to discourage illegal entry and prevent possible
spread of infectious diseases in our bird population. If you choose to have your
bird's leg band removed, be sure to have a veterinarian do the cutting to avoid injury and
he can also provide a certified document that your bird had a band and what the numbers
were in case of future sale.
Below are some of the
common markings that can be found on leg bands:
Open Bands - Will usually
have a State abbreviation followed by 3 or 4 identification numbers. The State
abbreviation refers to the USDA Quarantine facility where your bird was imported.
There are also private quarantine facilities that use the name of their facility
followed by numbers. Breeders and shippers use open bands for identification that
commonly include their initials and a number.
Closed Bands - Will
usually have a breeder code followed by idenficiation numbers and the year it was born.
Some of the common
abbreviations for Organizations found on leg bands:
ABS - American Buderigar
Society
ACS - American Cockatiel
Society
ALS - African Lovebird
Society
AS - American Singer Club
NCS - National Cockatiel
Society
NFS - National Finch &
Softbill
SPBE - Society of Parrot
Breeders & Exhibitors
Crusty Nose - Does your bird have crust around its eyes and nose?
If it does, your bird may have a serious respiratory infection. Respiratory
infections are common in birds and should be treated immediately by a veterinarian.
They can quickly become life threatening. Keeping your bird warm and away from
drafts can help reduce the risk of contracting a respiratory infection. Birds
in the wild do not show signs of illness until they are very sick. Therefore, you
may not notice your bird is mildly ill until it is too late. Watching your bird
carefully and knowing his routine can help determine if he has developed a problem.
Bathing - Birds love to take baths. Even if your bird did not
like it the first time, try, try again. Eventually, your bird will get the hang of
it. The most popular method for bathing a bird is with a mister. It is
important that your spray bottle only be used for misting your bird and never had anything
in the bottle except water. Mist your bird completely and thoroughly being careful
not to mist his face too much. Showers are another way to bathe your bird and a
great way to bond at the same time. Be sure to purchase a special grooved perch for
the shower to prevent a slipping accident. The shower head should have a gentle mist
as opposed to a hard stream. You can let your bird be sprayed by the water being
careful not to fully engulf his head. You can also bathe your bird in the bathroom
sink by lining it with a t-shirt (to prevent slipping) and filling it with water to the
top of your bird's leg. Never leave your bird unattended while bathing.
Bathing can be done as frequently as daily (large parrots and cockatoos benefit most) to
at least once per week. During molting, increase your bird's bathing to decrease any
itching. If you have a bird that is a feather plucker, try bathing him more often
too.
Egg Binding - It is that time of the year for birds to be laying and
some birds can develop a problem called egg binding. Egg binding occurs when an egg
becomes stuck in the pelvic canal. This can be a life-threatening problem and should
be treated by a Veterinarian immediately. Do not attempt to manually take the egg
out. You may accidentally rupture the egg causing a dangerous infection.
Symptoms of egg binding include an abnormal stance, lethargy, puffed feathers, sitting on
the bottom of the cage, and a swollen vent. To prevent egg binding, add a lot of
high calcium vegetables to your bird's diet. Calcium aides in the proper formation
of eggs. Oyster shells also provide an excellent source of calcium. It is
also important for you to become familiar with your bird's laying cycle so that you know
if she is having a problem.
Noisy Bird? - Did you know that birds in the wild call every morning
and every evening to locate their friends and family. This is a way for birds to
communicate where they are and find friends and family. Have you noticed that your
bird is particularly noisy at these times of the day? When your bird screeches,
yells, and is flapping his wings like crazy, take into consideration that he may be
looking for you and just telling that he is there and needs to be heard. On the
other hand, some birds make all kinds of piercing noises to get attention. If this
is the case, under no circumstances give him attention while he is making these noises
(even to say no!). That is exactly what he wants. Wait until he is done and
then reward him with treats and your attention. Do not acknowledge the bad behavior
because any attention they can get, bad or good, makes the problem worse. Another
helpful tip is to cover the cage and give your bird some quiet time. Immediately
upon taking the cover off, give him lots of attention and something to do. Enjoy
those moments when you are included as part of your birds flock!
Determining
the Sex of Your Bird - Many birds can
be sexed by looking for certain markings or characteristics in behavior. However, to
determine the sex of some of the larger parrots, it requires a Veterinarian surgical
exam or blood test for reliability (usually Macaws, African Greys, Amazons, and
Conures). The easiest bird to sex is the budgie or parakeet. As the male
budgie ages, you will notice a distinct coloring of blue on the upper area around the
nostrils. They also can have a bluish color to their legs. Whereas, the female
budgie will have a pale or tan colored area around the nostrils and pale pink legs.
In Canaries, look at the vent or "poop hole". The male Canaries' vent
protrudes more than a females. To get a better look, try gently blowing on the vent
area to move the feathers. Singing also differentiates a male Canary from the female
who does not sing. Depending on the type of Finch,there can be color distinctions,
beaks broader in males, and lots of other minor variations. In Cockatiels, the color on
the cheek patch of an older male is brighter than that of the female Cockatiel or you can
check underneath the tail feathers of males and look for solid colored feathers. The
female Cockatiel has stripes on her underneath tail feathers. Also with male Cockatiels,
they have no spots on their flight feathers. Lovebirds are difficult to sex but
experienced handlers can check the width of the pelvic bone which is wider in the
female. Cockatoos also can be hard to tell but if you have a trained eye, the female
Cockatoo has a reddish tint to her eye color and the males have a black or dark brown
color to their eyes. In most cases, as the bird ages the more distinct the
difference in sexes becomes. This is meant to be a general guideline and if you are
going to be breeding your bird, you should verify the sex with your Veterinarian.
Feather
Picking
This can be a devastating problem for the bird and the owner alike. Birds who exhibit feather picking lose all their
feathers due to plucking them out. It is a
troublesome problem because there can be a number of causes, all of which have to be ruled
out prior to curing feather picking. First,
start by taking your bird to your veterinarian to be sure there is no medical problem. If it is not medical then the cause can be related
to a stress factor in the birds life. These
can include an allergy, poor nutrition, boredom, or a change in environment. If it is an allergy, try changing your birds
diet and add a vitamin and mineral supplement. If
you suspect that your bird is bored or lonesome, try adding background noise while you are
away such as; a T.V. or radio. If you have
had a recent addition to the family, lavish extra attention on your bird whenever
possible. If it is a new bird, try putting it
into a quieter corner until it has settled into your routine. Sometimes a larger cage with a regular change in
toys is enough to stimulate your bird. The
key is to try just about anything you can think of to distract your birds attention
away from the feather-picking problem.
Molting
This process is the natural shedding of your birds feathers to make way for the new
feathers. This is a seasonal occurrence and
happens at least three times per year. Signs
of molting are increased amounts of feathers at the bottom of the cage, lots of preening
and a change in disposition. This is a
stressful period for your bird and if agitated, it can cause an abnormal molt leading to
improper feather development. You can help
your bird through this process by feeding extra fat and calcium and providing a quieter
and warmer environment. New feathers are
encased in a sheath that your bird preens apart to reveal the new feather. You can assist your bird by helping him preen the
new feathers on his head and neck where he cant reach. Gently squeezing the sheath and gently rubbing it
between your fingers helps break apart the sheath to let the new feather emerge. New feathers are also called blood feathers
because they contain a blood supply until the feather development is complete. If a blood feather should break and bleed, it is
best to completely pull out the feather (call your vet immediately if the bleeding does
not stop). A successful molt should bring new
feathers that are shiny and healthy. An
unsuccessful molt can bring feathers that have unusual markings and streaks called stress
bars. If this should happen, check with your
veterinarian.
Capturing
an Escapee
First
dont panic. If you saw your
bird escape, follow it. Dont try to
find rescue equipment. Enlist the help of a
volunteer to get your rescue equipment. Any
noise and activity may scare your bird. Try
using a hushed voice, which may entice him to listen and move closer. If he moves closer, reach out our hand or a branch
to reach him. If you did not see your bird
escape, try leaving his favorite toy perch and cage outside where he can reach it and,
most importantly, where he can see it. Be
sure to leave all his favorite treats in sight too. Items
that make-up an emergency plan are as follows:
· Write
down your birds leg band number for easy identification
· Have
a recent photo available
· Train
your bird to land on a variety of objects and to come to treats
· Rescue
equipment can include; a net, a carrier, binoculars, a stick, and a favorite treat
· The
number one preventative is to have your birds wings clipped properly
Rewarding
Good Behavior
Birds do not take kindly to nor do they respond well to negative reinforcement during
training. They do respond well to and should
be rewarded for good behavior. The best way
to deal with bad behavior is by ignoring it. Most
birds are trying to get your attention and will try anything. By ignoring the bad behavior, they will try
something else. To get your birds
attention or to stop him from doing something, try speaking very softly so that they will
concentrate on what you are saying and not what they are doing. A common problem behavior in birds is biting. To stop biting, try a handquake. This method is done by gently shaking or dropping
our hand quickly to get your birds attention. You
should never cause your bird to fall to the floor as this can injure him. Good Luck!
Poisonings
Typical poisoning cases in birds are caused by lead and salt. Lead poisoning can be attributed to lead in the
water supply from lead-lined pipes, curtain weights and lead-based paints. Lead poisoning symptoms include vomiting and
diarrhea, neurological symptoms such as seizures and lack of coordination. Salt poisoning is fairly unknown to many bird
owners and is caused by the ingestion of too much slat, such as in some types of dough. The symptoms include severe dehydration and
diarrhea. Teflon coated cookware is probably
the least known poisonings and can be fatal. At
certain high temperatures, Teflon coated cookware can release a poison gas that is fatal
to birds. It is important to note that if
your bird is not in the immediate area of the kitchen that this is probably not a problem. Therefore, if you are using this type of cookware,
keep your bird well away from the kitchen. There
are all easily preventable by keeping your bird protected from the above sources in
poisonings. Your veterinarian should be
contacted immediately if you suspect that your bird has been exposed to any type of
poison.
To Grit Or Not To Grit - Contrary to popular belief, grit is not necessary and can
even be dangerous to your bird. A bird's beak was made to break apart food for
ingestion. We have handed down the grit myth from chickens and the way a chicken
gulps its food whole and then breaks the food down in their gizzard. Psittacines
(another word for parrots) do not have gizzards. Most of the grit that you can
purchase is made from sand and does not have essential minerals and can cause impaction.
If you feel your bird is lacking in vitamins or minerals the best way to assure
that your bird is getting what it needs is to apply a powder formula vitamin supplement to
soft fruits and veggies.
Feather-
Clipping
To prevent your bird from flying away or endangering itself around the house, you will
need to clip its wing feather regularly. We
recommend you clip both sides so that your bird is balanced. You can either stand your bird on a
perch and extend its wing or wrap your bird in a towel and extend one wing out of the
towel. Only clip the first five feathers at
the tip of the wing called flight feathers. These
are the long feathers located underneath the wing. The
feathers should only be clipped about halfway from the tip of the feather. Be sure that the feather is not a blood feather (a
new feather not completely formed) that looks like it is filled with blood. Let the blood feather finish growing before
clipping. If you do cut a blood feather call
and take your bird to your veterinarian immediately.