Dog Pet Care Questions

Your veterinarian should be your first source of care and medical
information. As with all medical cases, check with your veterinarian before
changing any medical treatments. This information is meant as a resource,
not as a treatment, diagnosis or replacement of veterinary advice.

Nail Trimmings - Nail trimmings are a very important part of grooming and a good place to start with obedience training. Many types of pets do not like to have their feet handled or touched. This can make regular nail trimmings a hassle and a fearful time for your pet. Some pets get so worked up that they scream and bite as if they are being tortured. Nail trimmings (when done properly) are perfectly harmless and painless. We never recommend sedating an animal to do a nail trimming. We always recommend starting as soon as you get your pet with handling the feet and introducing the clipper so that they realize it will not harm them. If you make nail trimming or any grooming process fun, they will look forward to the "chore".

Start by playing, touching, scratching the feet/paw area several times per day for a couple of weeks or until they become comfortable with having their feet/paws handled. Be sure to use lots of positive reinforcement and treats!

Next, introduce the clippers by laying the clippers next to your pet while playing, touching and scratching their feet/paws. Do this for another week or so.

Finally, pet their feet/paws with the clippers, making sure not to use the clippers. After a couple days of this, start trimming just the tips of the nail so they get used to the feel. Be sure to use lots of treats.

Submissive Urination II -

Submissive urination can be related to a number of issues either medically, physically or emotionally. First, if your dog is "dribbling" frequently, you should take your puppy to the vet to rule out any medical problems related to bladder infections, incontinence or other kidney related problems. If your dog "dribbles" only when spoken too, touched or disciplined, chances are it is submissive urination.

Submissive urination is a natural instinct for dogs that they are unable to control. It is a way for your dog to communicate they are letting you be the boss, they are scared or happy, or just saying hello. Wild dogs do this as a way of greeting the leaders of the pack. It is not a behavior they can control and should never be corrected with discipline. Getting mad and using discipline will only make the situation worse and cause them to "dribble" more because they are showing submission to your aggression.

Is your dog spayed or neutered? Unaltered dogs can develop "dribbling" related to submissive or excited behavior.

Start by not getting your puppy overexcited with "baby talk" or getting him excited when you enter the house. Basically, ignore him until he calms down. If you walk in the door, walk right past him, acknowledge him after he calms down. If he jumps on your lap, do not pet or touch him for about 5 minutes or until he is relaxed. Do not use a high pitched or excited voice when speaking to him. Most people don't like to hear this....but if it is not related to a medical problem, 9 times out of 10 it is the owner causing the problem. If you can change your behavior, most likely your dog's behavior will change.

Here are some websites with more info:

http://www.mysmartpuppy.com/ask-us/articles/submissive-urination-puppy.html

http://www.uvhs.org/behavioral_docs/submissive_urination.pdf

http://www.k9insight.com/ask_pia.php?q=3

Aging Pets - We have gotten a lot of emails lately about aging pets and decided to list common ailments and problems associated aging. Any changes in behavior or appetite are often the first signs of illness. If you notice any of the symptoms below, please take your pet to a vet immediately for a complete check-up. This is not intended to cover everything, just the most common problems.

Dogs - A dog's lifespan depends greatly on quality of life, size, genetics and breed. Typical is between 10-12 years. Dogs are considered senior after age 7 and geriatric after age 10. This means that you should consider making dietary changes and watch for health problems after age 7. We also recommend getting a veterinary geriatric check-up at age 7 and again at age 10 (if no obvious problems) to rule out any hidden age related illnesses. The most common health problems associated with canine aging includes but are not limited to; weight gain, dental problems, arthritis & mobility, eye problems, hair and skin bumps or lumps, diabetes, thyroid problems, kidney and liver problems, heart problems and cognitive dysfunction. Symptoms to watch for in an older dog: changes in appetite, lethargy, drinking unusual amounts of water, frequent urination, trouble getting up, cloudy eyes, hair loss, oily skin or roughened skin, sudden weight changes, distended stomach, coughing, bumping into things, and barking at odd hours for no reason.

Anal Glands - All dogs have anal glands located at the 3:00 and 9:00 position next to the anus. As gross and stinky as they are, they do serve a valuable service. Each time a dog goes poop, these glands secret a small amount of fluid used to mark the dog's territory as well as for lubrication. Unfortunately, these glands often become infected and clogged. If you notice your dog scooting or licking that area, the glands may be mildly clogged. Many owners can express these glands as part of regular grooming practice. These helps eliminate the accidental release on furniture. The next time you have a regular vet visit, have them show you how to express the glands properly. However, if you notice that your dog has enlarged or inflammed anal glands, take your dog to the vet immediately for treatment as it is very painful and must be treated with antibiotics.

Leash Pulling - I know a lot of dog parents don't like to hear this...but, many common dog behavior problems are solved once they discover what it is they are doing to create or encourage the problem. Keep in mind that one of the best "cures" for behavioral problems is exercise. Lets face it, the lifestyle for many dogs is boring...playtime and exercise go a long way to relieving boredom. On that note...we have found a great website that explains a simple solution to leash pulling and the rational to why a dog pulls.

http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/nopulling.html

How to pick a diet for your dog -

While we can't recommend specific brands for your dogs, we can give you some ideas on what to look for in a quality food. Allergies are the number one complaint with dog owners. It is most often associated with a food allergy. Food allergies are most often caused by food additives and by-products. Please check with your vet about food allergies and any dietary changes.

People often mix different kinds of protein in food and treats. Be sure your food and treats have the same protein. Don't use chicken for one, pig for the other and beef for another. I like the dried chicken breast strips myself for treats.

Check the labels on your current dog food. The first three ingredients should not contain the words..."by-product", "meal", "corn", "wheat", etc. The main ingredient should be a protein such as your basic chicken, beef, lamb, or fish. Then it can contain a starch such as rice, barley, potatoes, etc. Any other ingredients should be the required vitamins and supplements required by law. Stick to a food that contains only one protein source and one starch or carb source. This way it will be easier to rule out any allergies. You can start with the popular lamb and rice diets (however, make sure there are no other proteins or carbs and definitely no corn, wheat or soy). For allergies, I prefer a fish and rice or potato diet because the fish has lots of oil and makes the skin and coat look better.

My dog's food label reads: "Salmon", "Sweet Potatoes", and then lists the vitamin contents. I can read and understand everything on the label. It can be found at most large pet stores but definitely not the grocery store!

Potty Training - Winter - A friend of mine moved into an apartment and had to give her 7 month old rat terrier up. I asked if I could have him and have been very happy with him. He is 8 months old and I am having a very hard time housebreaking him. I live in Minnesota where our winters are very cold. I bought him a sweater and pair of doggie booties but he just seems to hate going out in that weather. We both stand out there and freeze. He is very wonderful with my family and I have fallen in love with this little pup. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Is he to old to be housebroken now? Thank You for any help.

Potty Response -

Small breed dogs tend to be a little more difficult to completely housetrain...it is not so much that they can't be housetrained, but that we are a little easier on the smaller breeds because the are so cute. Most dogs are never to old to potty train. Persistence, Consistency and Patience are the key. The sweater and the booties are a great start. (Fortunately, I don't live in Minnesota or my dog may not be housetrained either! I am not partial to the cold). If it is too difficult in the snow, try making a potty spot in the garage with newspapers. Then you can move the potty spot outdoors when the weather is more appropriate. Unfortunately, it will call for retraining but will be easier. There are also new products for indoor potty areas for dogs.

http://www.patiopark.com/

We always recommend during the training period, which lasts about 1 month to 2 months, that you crate your dog whenever you are unable to play and supervise your dog. This does not mean leave him for hours in the crate unattended. It just means that he should be in the crate whenever you cannot be right there to take him out for potty time. Most dogs will refuse to mess their "den". He should be walked immediately after play, eating and waking (sleeping in the crate also). Then set a timer about every 30 minutes, take him to the potty spot, use a key word and do not return until he has finished business. Be sure to give lots of praise when done correctly.

Good luck and wishing you warmer weather.

Lyme Disease - Can you please tell me the symptoms of Lyme disease from a tick bite on
a dog?

Lyme Response - I will forward you onto another website about that one....lyme disease in
dogs is very difficult to determine. You should consult with your
veterinarian if you think your dog has been exposed. Below is a link from
the AVMA with more information on lyme disease:

http://www.avma.org

Bull Terrier - What is the life span of a bull terrier

Bull Terrier Repsonse -

Lifespans very greatly on the quality of life the dog is living and the breeding quality of the dog. However, bull terriers have a lifespan of around 10-13 years. Usually the larger the breed, the shorter the lifespan. A bull terrier is considered a medium breed.

Winter Walks - Hi, I have a golden retriever and this is his first winter. I walk him for about and hour on our walks in the summer. Can I walk him in the snow for this long and is there a "cutoff" temperature that would be considered safe for these walks? I love my dog and do not want to cause him any harm by walking him in winter.

Winter Response -

The biggest danger of walking your dog in the winter time is the ice melting chemicals on the roads and sidewalks as well as the salt used to melt the ice. These things can cause burns to the pads of your dog's feet. If you think your dog has come into contact with these, be sure to wash his feet immediately after walking. You can purchase dog booties at most pet stores that will protect their feet from chemicals and cold. Below is a website with a brand called muttluks found in pet stores.

http://www.muttluks.com

Most longer haired dog breeds are well equipped to handle some temperature extremes for a short period of time. In general, it usually considered that if you are comfortable, your dog is comfortable in any temperature setting. If you are uncomfortable or cold, your dog probably is too. We would recommend that you start of slow and see how your dog reacts to the cold. Some dogs will refuse to go outside and some love it. Definetly use something to protect his feet such as booties or coating. I personally have had my lab up in the snow on walks about 20 minutes at about 20 degrees. Much colder than that and I would definetly be uncomfortable.

Bichon - I am interested in a Bichon Frise and a friend of mine has informed me that they are not easily house broken and even at two years old they are not trained. She said that this is a problem with the breed. Is this true?

Bichon Response -

Bichon Frises are not necessarily more difficult to house train than other breeds...however, as a general rule most smaller breeds are considered more difficult because they are more pampered by their owners. I have friends that own Bichons and not one has a problem with house training. If you are consistent with training, provide basic obedience training, and do not over pamper your dogs, they will be easily house trained.

By the way, Bichons are an excellent breed choice!

Sudden Aggression - I have a cocker poodle mix that I rescued when she was a year and a
half. I have now had her 3 years. She is very sweet to me and we have
never she has never been aggressive toward me. She does have a touch of
separation anxiety and will whine when I leave her. I began doing
flyball with her a year ago and noticed that she fear bites strangers.
She is so cute that when people come up to pet her she will let them and
then without warning bite. After the first incident I became more
protective with her and would not allow people to put their hands near
her mouth. The most recent incident occured with a family member. She
jumped in their lap allowing them to pet her, then turned and bit their
finger. There was no warning or anything. It is difficult for me to
correct the behavior because it is not a regular occurrence, it has
happened 2 times in the past year, but I do not want to continue to
worry about her interacting with strangers. What can I do to solve this
problem?

Aggression Response - Aggression can be a confusing problem....there are always underlying
triggers that are not always easy to understand. The first thing to rule
out is pain. Pain is the number one trigger of sudden aggression. It is
often the first sign of illness. Is it possible that your cockapoo has an
old injury (prior to adoption) such as an old break or fracture that at
certain times of the year (winter) or when handled a certain way causes
pain? Could she have developed a back problem from the flyball? Could she
have a tumor causing pain? While it may not be the problem, it is worth a
check-up with your vet to rule it out. There are certain horomonal problems
that can cause a dog with fluctuating horomones to become aggressive also.

Since you mention she has developed or has separation anxiety (which is very
common in rescued dogs), she could also have some fear aggression in
conjunction with the separation anxiety. However, I do not think this
necessarily applies because it sounds as if she is not biting out of fear,
but maybe protectiveness towards you, territorial, excitement, etc. There
is also the chance that the flyball activity over stimulates her and causes
stress. Is this behavior most notable during or after flyball training and
competitions? Some dogs do not respond well to stressful situations. It
would be similar to you being very stressed and taking it out by yelling
(her with biting).

If she has only bit on several occassions some of the links below may seem
extreme, however it is true the aggression can get worse and should be
treated immediately. Please talk to your vet and an animal behaviorist to
start getting to the root of the problem.

Have you considered a muzzle for her until you resolve the problem? Please
consider this so that someone unfamiliar with your dog does not ask to have
her destroyed if biten.

Here are some links with some more information:

http://www.canismajor.com/dog/aggres1.html

Please let us know how she is doing.

Puppy Vomiting II - I have a 6 month old yorky. He has been vomiting for two day's. He
does'nt want to move,walk or eat . He can't seem to keep anything in his
tummy. I don't know if it's because I've changed his food? I was giving
him dry puppy chow for five month's but now have changed it to
(dry)Pedigree for puppy's.It's has only been 4 weeks that he's try'd
Pedigree. I don't know if that is the reason. What should I do... Please
help.

Puppy Response - We are not veterinarians and cannot provide veterinary care, advice or
treatment. Our information is provided as a resource. Your first resource
should always be your veterinarian.

Please take your yorkie to the vet! If he has been vomiting for two days,
is not eating, walking or moving....it sounds serious. There are a number
of things it could be...has he been vaccinated for Parvo? Parvo is a
life-threatening virus that causes extreme vomiting and bloody diarrhea. It
has to be treated by a vet. Another idea that comes to mind is that your
yorkie may have something blocking his intestines or throat. Did he
recently play with a toy, string, paper, etc. that could be blocking his
intestines or throat? This also life-threatening and needs to be treated by
a vet.

A food change should not cause such a problem. Food changes usually only
cause mild diarrhea for a couple of days and is seen immediately after
changing the food.

Again, please take your yorkie to the vet.

Separation Anxiety - I have a 13 month old female Jack Russell that appears to suffer from seperation anxiety that has excaserbated since she had a litter of pups she managed the litter with excellence as she was only 10 months when she whelped. All 4 pups are alive and well. I have sold 2 of the 4 and the other 2 are leaving in the next couple of days I have read that a companion is good we also have a male JR that is 2. That doesn't seem to help at all she is very aggressive toward him as though she misses him too. I crate both dogs when I leave home and at night, she gets so upset that she picks the cage up with her teeth while inside and can travel almost all the way throught the house. I would rather not sedate her if possible if you could offer any form of advice I would greatly appreciate it, I leave the radio on in my abscence to try and pacify her as much as possible.

Separation Response -

It sounds like you have done a little research on separation anxiety and have tried all the "normal" cures. Some dogs can develop this into an obsession. This simply means that it is a way for your dog to soothe itself. You need to discover a new way for your dog to soothe itself when anxious. This can be very difficult. Most dogs are soothed by the confines of a crate. However, it sounds as if your dog is not. Below is a link to a story I found with similarities. However, they did finally medicate their dog. I do not necessarily recommend this unless it is diagnosed that your dog has a "disorder". Most dogs that are medicated can be slowly reduced on their medication and may even be able to discontinue the medication after they have developed good behaviors. You don't say whether or not your JRT gets lots of exercise. Since JRT's are very active, I would recommend you vigorously exercise your dog for at least 1/2 hour prior to leaving and upon returning. A tired dog is usually a sleepy dog. Do not forget the golden rule of separation anxiety which is to ignore your dog 15 minutes prior to leaving and 15 minutes upon returning. Also, do not jingle keys which signals your departure. Have you tried the kong toys filled with peanut butter that can take hours to finish? This may work temporarily. I would also recommend that you try doing some retraining in the crate when you are not working. Put her in her crate and stay near her giving her treats when she is acting appropriately. Constantly reassuring her....this can take up to a month of retraining. Keep her in her crate (never alone) constantly reassuring her and letting her out for exercise food and play. She should learn to be comfortable in her crate not anxious. You might also consider trying a different type of crate. She may feel more comfortable in an enclosed or covered crate. Because her puppies are being weaned this may be an especially anxious time for her. She may improve after the puppies have been gone for a while. Another avenue to explore is obedience training. Even if your dog is well trained, obedience training helps to build confidence and may reduce her reliance on you.

http://www.greytdogs.com/midnite3.html#top

Please let us know how she is doing.

Itchy Golden

I have a two year golden retriever female who seems to itch & chew alot. I find dry, flaky, dark scabby spots occasionally on her legs (front & back) and also "rashy" looking spots in her armpit area and under side. She chews on herself alot especially her paws and legs. She has no fur loss at these spots now - they are sometimes hard to spot due to her thick fur. I just found that one of her nipples is very red and sore looking like she has really been scratching it. Do you have any idea what might be causing this and what I can do treat these spots and prevent them.

Itchy Reponse - We are not veterinarians and cannot provide veterinary care, advice or
treatment. Our information is provided as a resource. Your first resource
should always be your veterinarian.

What you are describing sounds like allergies or hot spots. The number one allergy in dogs is usually food or fleas...however, most fleas have disappeared by now because of winter. They can still be around in the warm parts of the country. Even if your dogs do not have fleas, some dogs with allergies respond well when put on flea medication such as Program or Advantage. The other most common allergy is a food allergy. Have you tried a non-allergenic diet such as lamb & rice (most commercial brands have this mix)? I have a lab that is allergic to dog food that contains wheat...try and stay away from brands that have a main ingredient of wheat and corn. Rice and barley are less allergenic. You can also try coating their food with a tablespoon of olive oil at least twice per week to help with dry skin.

Hot spots are brought on by excessive itching and are actually infected areas that become so itchy that it can become an obsession. Hot spots generally need to be treated with antibiotics because they are the result of a secondary skin infection from all the scratching and licking. You could try using an anti-bacterial ointment on the rash (it may help if it is bacterial). Also try using an oatmeal shampoo for bathing.

Below is a link on our site (in case you missed it) with more information and great links on allergies.

http://www.petinfo4u.com/askdog.htm#Itching

http://www.vetinfo.com/ditch.html#Itching in scratching in Goldens

Upset Stomach - My little miniature poodle got into some ham lunchmeat last night and now is really paying the price. She was up vomiting several time during the night and still acts like she doesn't feel very well. Is there something I can give to her to help settle her tummy?

Stomach Response -

We are not veterinarians and cannot provide veterinary advice, care or treatment. Our information is provided as a resource. Your first resource should always be your veterinarian.

I hope your dog is feeling better. Below is a link with great ideas for home remedies. For you information...it is ok to give your dog antacids (see link for dosages). Because of what your dog ate, she may be experiencing gas pain and bloating. If you notice that she does not improve, please take your dog to the vet. Some dogs can develop a life-threatening problem called bloat. Bloat is usually seen in larger dogs but can happen to any dog experiencing severe gas. It is dangerous because the stomach becomes twisted and if not treated is lethal.

http://www.geocities.com/Petsburgh/Zoo/1224/vomit.html

http://www.cybercanine.com/bloat.htm

Let us know how she is doing.

Upset Stomach Update:

I did end up taking my dog to the vet but she ended up dying anyway. We still don't know what caused her to become sick but it is suspected that she threw a clot and had a stroke. This was a terrible blow to our family as she was a beloved part of our family. Thank you for you advice anyway.

Update Response -

I am so sorry to hear that you lost her. I have listed a link below that is a great help during times of sorrow.

http://www.petloss.com/poems/maingrp/rainbowb.htm

http://www.petloss.com/ceremony.htm

Thank you for the update,

Puppies Vomiting - In brief, found 4 female puppies (guess 8-12 weeks old) on side of road last week. Appeared to be healthy. Been feeding dry dog food. This morning, 2 of the 4 very sick - extremely lethargic, occasional vomiting (mostly dry heaves), will drink some water and are able to uriniate (if I hold them up to stand). Only poisons on the property are out of their reach. Can't afford to take to local vet, bad economy here in Alabama hit us hard. Just trying to keep them alive until we find good homes. Thank you for any insight!

Puppies Response -

We are not veterinarians and cannot provide veterinary advice, care or treatment. Your first resource should always be your veterinarian. Our information is provided as a resouce.

Seperate the healthy puppies immediately!!!!

Do the puppies have diarrhea or blood in their stool? Do they have a sickly sweet smell to themselves or their stool? I hope it is not the case, however, puppies that young could be susceptible to parvo and it is generally fatal if not treated immediately by a vet. Parvo will get worse very quickly with continually vomiting and very bad diarrhea. Dehydration is the biggest danger. There are no home treatments because the dogs die quickly from dehydration. Intravenous fluids and medication are the only treatment option. Parvo is found in the soil and other dog feces and is very contagious. Check out the link below for more information.

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=467

The only thing I can recommend because you cannot afford a vet is to take them to your local shelter...be sure to call ahead and let them know about the parvo! The shelter may care for them and then find them homes.

Puppy Update: Thank you for your reply. Out of all the places I emailed, you were THE most helpful. Through the night, one of the puppies died. This morning, the other one appears to be much better. The link you sent about parvo seemed to match their symptoms. It is still early morning here, but I think I will go ahead and take them all to the animal shelter. My husband and I like to try to find homes for strays (our local shelter euthanizes sometimes the same day you bring them in), but we are now worried that our other animals might have been infected (indoor/outsoor cat and a mostly indoor dog). I have been running around the house like an idiot with a can of disinfectant!

Update Response -

Thank you for having such a kind and big heart to help animals in need! We need more people like you and your family.

I am sorry to hear that one of the puppies died. I hope that your indoor dog is vaccinated against parvo. If not, please get him vaccinated. Cats do not get parvo. It is very contagious and lives in the ground and may be dormant during the winter only to return in the summer. It can get on your clothes, shoes thereby traveling around your yard and house. Bleach is the only disenfectant for parvo. If your other dog shows any symptoms, lethargy, vomiting and loss of appetite are usually first, get him to the vet immediately. It can be treated in some cases.

More Updates: Just wanted to let you know that I spoke with a local veterinarian - was going to take our "indoor" dog in for parvo tests and vaccine, even if I had to beg him for a discount or payment plan. He assured me that she is immune because of her old age (12). He said that in all his years as a vet, never a case of parvo in dogs over 3 years of age. I will still do whatever I can to disinfect our yard in case a stray dog wanders through (which happens a lot out here in our rural dwellings), but at least I can cease my anxiety about our little Bischon. Just wanted to share the good news with you, and thank you again for going through this crisis with me!

Update Response :

Am so glad you got your vets advice! It is true that puppies are more likely to contract and die from the virus, however, your dog may still get it but not such a serious case. Please keep an eye for about 7-10 days to see if he develops any symtoms. 7-10 days is the infection period. If he starts to show symptoms, please call your vet immediately for advice.

Please read the following link for more information, it has great information on parvo and the spread of the virus. You are right...you cannot use bleach on a carpet. I would have your carpet at least cleaned by a carpet cleaner. There is a solution called nolvasan that is used by vet offices (ask them about it). It is blue in color and don't think it will hurt the carpet (not sure though).

http://www.workingdogs.com/parvofaq.htm

http://www.barnyardhealth.com/noldis.html (nolvasan info)

Thank you so much for the updates. Keep up your good work...just be sure when bringing home strays that you "quarantine" them for several days to be sure they don't develop illnesses and infect your family pets.

Newborn Bedding -

we are expecting a litter of golden retriever puppies what kind of bedding do we need?

Newborn Response -

Congratulations! There are several options to consider. You can prepare a whelping box, large cardboard box or kiddie plastic pool or just prepare a familiar area that your female has picked. Provide either newspaper or easily cleaned sheets and towels for the birthing process. The mother will clean up best she can after birth and then will clean the puppies eliminations for a couple of weeks. However, you will need to provide clean bedding material as needed, usually every other day. It is very important that the puppies be kept warm. We recommend using a heating pad on its lowest setting under the bedding material. Below are links with information on newborn puppy care:

http://www.petplace.com/Articles/artShow.asp?artID=4182 (instructions on making whelping box

http://www.petplace.com/Articles/artShow.asp?artID=2535

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1651&articleid=916

http://www.labbies.com/whelp.htm (a good breakdown of what happens)

Golden retrievers can have large litters of 6-10 puppies. Good Luck! Send us some pictures for our pet pictures page.

Foxtails - Hi can you tell me how harmful it is to hunt my dog in heavy foxtail fields here in Minnesota. I have heard it can kill hunting dogs here as well as out west. Please send any info you have we are thinking of have a dog trial in a heavy foxtail field but don't want to put the dogs in harm.

Foxtail Response -

That is a dilemma...foxtails are not generally lethal but are dangerous because they can burrow and travel throughout the body if left unchecked. The most common problems associated with foxtails are ears, nose, toes and coat. Foxtails are V shaped and have barbs which enable them to penetrate and burrow into skin. Complications occur when they are allowed to burrow into the skin, between the toes, into ear canals, and from the nose into the lungs. Generally complications can be kept to a mininmum by combing the coat after contact, checking ears, nose, throat and between toes. If a foxtail has been allowed to burrow into the skin...do not try to remove it, the barbs on the foxtail make it very difficult as well as extremely painful. Only a vet should remove foxtails and treat with antibiotics.

However, there is a big difference between a dog on a leash taking a stroll through long grass and a dog doing field trials. We would not recommend doing the field trials where there are foxtails. If you do decide to hold the trials, each participant should be given a foxtail alert, symptoms and treatment sheet. Check out the links below.

http://www.placervillevet.com/foxtails.htm

http://www.vizsladogs.com/CLUBS/nva/nva6.htm

Our information is provided as a resource and is not intended to replace veterinary care, advice or treatment.

Scared of Riding in Car -

2006 Scared Behavior

Our Puppy, Huckabee, a 14 wk standard Schnoodle. She has an avid fear of our entryway. We have an "L" shape stairway. Doorway, Long Staircase, Landing, then 2 steps to Right.

Huckabee will balk at the doorway 90 percent of the time. If she does enter she backs out again, repeating this process while crying.

If I put her on the first step she will climb the first stairway wait for me on the Landing than grudgingly take the last two steps.

The reverse is the most problematic as we attempt to potty train. She will whine to go out and go within 5 feet of the stairwell, balk. I have tried to encourage her, coax her but she will have none of it. She gets so nervous she ends up peeing on the carpet I have even tried to place her favorite treat at the edge of the steps. She will go grab the snack and back up to her safety zone.

We placed bells at next to the staircase to train her to ask to go out. We have her tap the bells as we carry her out. Could this be the problem?

Response -

I am trying to picture your entryway from your description but having a hard time. The only thing I can think of is she must have had a bad experience of some kind at the entryway. This could be something as simple as a reprimand received at this exact place, a loud noise that sacred her, or even static electricity between her and a carpet. Does your entryway have tile or any slippery material? My lab is a little uneasy on our laminate floor because it is slippery and is easily scared by any noises it makes. If you think it is related to the flooring, simply try adding rugs or other covering to alleviate her fear. This also might help if something else is scaring her...simply changing the look might help. As for a sound...the bells could be triggering it...if this is the case, could it be that she is actually anticipating the bells and it is making her anxious or excited? Try removing the bells and replacing them with something else so she can see that they are gone. If she associates a bad memory with this area, the only way to fix that is to change her opinion. You did right by trying the treat method. However, since that did not work you might try more involved methods such as crating her in the entryway but only when you are there with her encouraging her, feeding her there, and playing with her. Never leave her there alone which might instill more fear. Then gradually working to the same methods but without the crate. The point is to instill happy thoughts at the door. Try always asking her to come to you past the entryway and always have a treat ready for her so that she knows going past the entry is a good thing. Hopefully it's just a puppy phase and she will grow out of it with your encouragement.

Thank you for your participation in our website,

petinfo4u.com

2003 Scared of Car - I have an 18 month old female Bassett that gets extremely nervous, antsy and whiney while riding in the van. It doesn�t matter how long the trip is. I got her at 11 months from the Humane Society and have never taken her on any trip that would be considered traumatic.

I am taking her on a six hour (each way) trip to my parents for Thanksgiving and was wondering if there is something that I could give her to help calm her down. I would prefer something that is natural or as close as possible.

Car Response -

One of the reasons some dogs are anxious in the car is because they are highly excited. Car rides are fun for most dogs. However, too much excitement can make them nervous and even sick. Before going on your six hour trip, try taking her on lots of short rides around the neighborhood. Reward her in the car when she is not whining or acting anxious. When on your long trip, keep food to a minimum in case she gets sick. Treats are ok. Below are some websites with some information on natural alternative sedatives:

http://www.peteducation.com

Our information is provided as a resource and does not replace veterinary care, advice or treatment. Your first resource should always be your veterinarian.

Toothache - What can I do to help my dogs toothache until my vet opens tommorrow/ Thanks

Toothache Response -

Your dog can receive coated aspirin to help with the pain. However, you will need to call an emergency vet to find the correct dosage. Below is a link with a dosage chart. Feed your dog canned food or milk soaked kibble.

Our information is provided as a resource and is not intended to replace veterinary care, advice or treatment. Your first resource should always be your veterinarian.

Amputation - I adopted my dog from the humane society. He was rescued after he had to have hip surgery following being hit by a car/truck. I was told that they cut off the head of his femur. I was told he did not have any neurovascular damage to his extremity. He has constantly chewed on his foot; resulting in an amputation of his toe at the joint. We have worked hard at keeping him from chewing and had it healed until yesterday. He has started to chew on the remaining "good" toe. I caught him today trying to chew off his toe. Help! What is going on? I'm taking him to the vet tomorrow.

Amputation Response -

Thank you for having a place in your heart for a special needs dog! What a wonderful person you are.

We are not veterinarians and cannot provide veterinary advice, care or treatment. Our information is provided as a resource. Your first resource should always be your veterinarian.

There are several things that come to mind. They are; the obvious one being a neurological problem associated with the surgery, an obsessive disorder which can develop from a dog trying to soothe itself and finds that chewing itself to peices is better than itching or having constant pain, and skin infection causing severe itching (hot spots). Even if either one of these was actually the cause, your vet should have given you an elizabethan collar to prevent your dog from chewing on itself. These collars are great for stopping obsessive licking and chewing which can cause secondary skin infections that are so itchy that most dogs will chew themselves into a bloody mess. The idea with the collar is to keep the dog from the activity and to distract him with other ways of soothing himself. Eventually either the habit will stop or the problem will have been treated and will stop. If skin infections and obesessive behavior have been ruled out, I would recommend you get a second opinion on whether or not your dog has nerve damage from the surgery. You don't say how long ago he had this surgery. It is possible that the nerves are still "healing" and causing some unusual sensations for your dog.

http://www.doggiedoor.com/doghouse/obsess1.htm (go to "eating tail")

http://www.vet.ksu.edu/depts/VMTH/SA.Surgery/HipDysplasia.htm (go to femoral head excision)

Please let us know what you discover and how your dog is doing.

Amputation Update:

Noah is scheduled to have his leg removed in the morning. He is such a loving & brave little dog. My family & I decided that if Noah could live with three legs & be happy, we could be happy having him as our friend. I hope we are doing the right thing for him. I just don't want him to suffer. My husband & I are both nurses and we know people sometimes go through an awful lot & still have awful outcomes. God sent Noah to us and we intend to take care of him just like he was one of our kids. Thank you for your response. Pray that the little guy does ok. Thank you for your information

Update Response :

Noah will do just fine...he has a family that loves him. Check out these heart warming stories:

http://www.petswithdisabilities.org/stories.html

Another Update:

Can you send me any information on what is best to rehabilitate my poor Noah. I know the vet will give us instructions after the amputation of his leg. But I like to read things for my self too. Thank you for being so helpful.

Update Response :

Glad to help...

http://www.avma.org/onlnews/javma/mar00/s030100d.asp

http://cancer.med.upenn.edu/specialty/vet_onc/faq/faq_dog5.html

Let me know if they are helpful and how Noah is doing.

Heartwarming Update:

Just an update on Noah. He is doing great. He is getting back to his active state. It is so-o-o-o good to see him run on his three legs. He has been chasing his ball around the back yard. Thanks for all of you support.

Diabetes - We have a wonderful little min pin named Cleo. She has had diabetes for
about two years. She has been seeing a specialist. Over the past two
years Cleo has been on several types of insulin and dosages.
Recently it was discovered that she has a "thickening around her
intestinal wall". Her vet prescribed prednisone to be taken orally, but this did not
seem to help. She has lost a great deakl of weight. Cleo is now getting
the prednisone through and injection. Do you have any information or experience with a case like this??? We would appreciate any help you might give.

Diabetes Response - We are not veterinarians and cannot provide veterinary advice, care or treatment. Our information is provided as a resource. Your first resource
should always be your veterinarian.

Unfortunately with diabetes there can be secondary conditions develop
complicating the condition further. From your description, a thickening
around the intestinal wall usually means colitis or inflamatory bowel
disease. Basically it means there is irritation to the intestinal lining.
There can be many causes for either of these conditions and it is usually
difficult to diagnose what is causing the inflammation. It may just be a
complication of the diabetes. Prednisone is a common treatment for any type
of inflammation. Prednisone is a steriod which reduces inflammation.
However, I have read that prednisone is not an ideal treatment for a dog
with diabetes because it makes it more difficult to regulate the insulin
levels. On a good note, prednisone should increase Cleo's appetite. Diet
also plays an important role in the treatment of inflammatory bowel disease,
colitis and diabetes. Your vet should be able to provide you with a diet
that is beneficial to both the diabetes and inflammatory bowel disease.
These diets are usually high in fiber and a non-allergenic diet. Below are
links with information on diabetes, IBD and colitis:

http://www.petdiabetes.org/education_index.htm (great website with lots of
diabetes information)

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1571&articleid=305

http://www.thepetcenter.com/gen/colitis.html

On another note, I am not sure if it would be related, but I did find a lot
of association with the information I was looking up and pancreatitis and
cushings disease. I hope that this information is helpful. Please let us
know how Cleo is doing.

Heat Cycle - I have a Lab that is 10.5 months old and in heat, can you tell me how long that will last? She is currently tied up, as there are other dogs in the area that it is driving them crazy. I hate to keep her tied, her and my other 2 have the run of 2.5 acres.
Also, I heard that before you spay them they should have a litter, so they won't get prematurely fat. (fact or wise tale)?

Heat Cycle Response -

Signs of heat usually last up to 2 weeks. However, dogs are generally in heat before you notice the signs. It is a wives tale "to let your dog have a litter before spaying her"...it is common practice now is to spay females as early as three months old.

Car Seat Restraints - Is there some kind of safety device I can purchase for my dog. I worry about his safety.

Car Seat Response - There are several devices available for restraining your dog in the car. Below are links to those websites with information on doggie seat belts:

http://www.ruffrider.com/

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tailsbythebay/dogcarseatbelt.html

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tailsbythebay/petcarseat.html

http://www.coastalpet.com/products/safety/easyriderm.htm

http://www.qualitypetbeds.8m.com/

Shetland Sheepdog - Do you have any information on this breed of dog

Shetland Response -

The Shetland Sheepdog is commonly referred to as a Sheltie. The Sheltie belongs to the herding group of dogs. This means that generally these types of dogs have high energy, may try to herd family members (nip at small children), and are very intelligent. Shelties are small dogs at about 20 - 25 pounds. Their size is ideal for an apartment or condo, however, because of their energy level they should have a yard. Good socialization training is recommended for this breed because of their guarding nature. They are known for protecting their "flock".

Here are some links with more information:

http://www.canismajor.com/dog/sheltie.html

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/shetlandsheepdog.htm

Indoor Potty -

I have a miniature schnauzer that is potty trained (to go outside). I recently moved and cannot come home for lunch to let her out. Several years ago, I saw on an animal channel where you could grow indoor grass for your pet to alleviate itself on. Cassie hates to potty in the house...so she holds it forever. That could not be pleasant for her. I think she would use the indoor grass and be much happier. Do you have any suggestions along this line?

Indoor Potty Response -

What a great idea! Our suggestions include the patio park and litter training (very popular now). Below are links to information on these nifty ideas:

http://www.patiopark.com/

Our section on dog litter in case you didn't see it is below:

Dog Litter - Have you heard of or tried the new dog litter?! We think this may be one of the best ideas in pet products. Dog litter will benefit those that have a new puppy being potty trained, those that live in cold climates, and those that live in apartments and cities. For puppies, litter training combined with crate training, scheduled feedings, scheduled playtime and using a cue word to signal potty time means SUCCESS! For those living in cold climates, litter training means no more trips out in the cold snow or your pet refusing to go out. For those living in apartments and cities where potty places are limited, it means freedom from "potty bags". As the old saying goes, even old dogs can learn new tricks. It is not just for the puppies, all dogs can be retrained to use the litter. Dog litter is designed with puppies and smaller dogs in mind and is not recommended for large dogs (we think you could try). Check your local pet store for this new product.

The new litter comes with a potty training guide, litter pan, gloves, odor remover, and scooper. The only drawback we can see is getting over the initial "ick" factor of having your dog poop in the house. Obviously, the litter pans need to be cleaned out frequently.

Below are links to more information on Dog Litter:

http://www.doglitter.com/prod_info.htm

http://www.epinions.com/pets-Dogs-Training-All-Purina_secondnature_Dog_Litter

You could fashion your own indoor potty area with sod and a low sided plastic liner or small kid's pool. The key is to find something totally washable.

Separation Anxiety Chewing -

WE OWN A BLACK LAB/AUSSIE SHEPPARD /CHOW MIX THAT WE ADOPTED FROM THE SPCA IN FLORIDA. IN MAY OF THIS YEAR WE MOVED FROM FLORIDA TO NORTH CAROLINA AND INTO AN APARTMENT FOR 3 MONTHS

AND THEN INTO OUR NEW HOUSE. THE PROBLEM IS NOW WHEN MY WIFE AND I LEAVE FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME HE BECOMES DESTRUCTIVE

IF WE BLOCK HIM IN THE KITCHEN AREA HE GETS OUT AND THEM CHEW ON A CORNER OF A CHAIR, SOFA AND WHEN WE GET HOME HE KNOWS HE IS BAD BY THE WAY HE IS ACTING. SO THEN WE STARTED PUTTING HIM IN A CAGE FOR LARGE DOGS WHEN WE LEAVE FOR THE DAY OR ANY LENGTH OF TIME, BUT KNOW HE IS CHEWING UP THE TOWEL THAT IS ON THE BOTTOM OF THE CAGE.

Separation Anxiety Response -

Have you ever heard of seperation anxiety? That sounds like what you are describing. Seperation anxiety is caused by stress in a pet's environment. Moving is definetly a stress to most pets. Crate training is great a way to combat this behavior problem. Crate training helps to create a safe-haven and relieve anxiety. Below are some links from our website and others with information on seperation anxiety and crate training.

http://www.petinfo4u.com/dogs.htm#Crate

Copied info from our website:

Chewing Problem - A dog that chews continuously and for prolonged periods of time has a behavioral problem that can be corrected with time and patience. Generally, chewing problems start from loneliness and can become an obsessive condition. When chewing develops into an obsession, the chewing is harder to stop because it has become a way for the dog to soothe itself. Dogs that are prone to obsessive chewing are also experiencing separation anxiety.

The first step towards stopping chewing is to understand separation anxiety. Obviously, our dogs would like to be around us all day, therefore, when we are gone for prolonged periods of time, they get lonely and can develop bad behaviors. To combat separation anxiety do not make a big deal about leaving or arriving home. This means no excited hellos or goodbyes. Prolonged goodbyes only signal the dog that you are leaving and heightens their anxiety. Below is a link with more information about separation anxiety associated with chewing.

The next step is to break the cycle of obsessive chewing and soothing. Get a soda can, fill it with some rocks or pennies. Plan a training session by letting your dog know you are leaving. Sneak back into the house and stay hidden. When your dog starts the chewing, shake the can vigorously to distract him. Distract him every time he chews, until you are ready to "return" (return when not chewing). When you are home, use the terms "no chew" when training. Give this command when leaving the house. Leave for short periods at first, slowly extending the time away. Try leaving a radio on or tape with soothing sounds of your voice.

The third step is to keep your dog occupied when you are gone for long periods of time. Give them something to do when you leave such as a special toy and special treats that are only given when you leave. Treats should be something that occupies their time. Try a game such as hide-n-seek with toys and treats or have a surprise visit scheduled from a neighbor or friend (a walk) to break-up the day. Exercise is also a great way to keep your dog from barking. A tired dog is a sleepy dog. Go for an extended walk or run prior to leaving the house.

http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/separtn.htm

http://www.inch.com/~dogs/separationanxiety.html

Our information is provided as a resource and is not intended to replace veterinary care, advice or treatment. Your first resource should always be your veterinarian.

Rimadyl Reaction -

My Cairn Terrier had a bad reaction to Rimadyl about a month ago. Her liver functions have returned to normal but her kidneys are still impaired. She is being treated with daily IV's. Can you direct me to a source that might be able to suggest a homeopathic remedy that would support renal function and speed up regeneration?

Rimadyl Response -

I am happy to hear that your dog is on the way to recovery! Below are some links that I found regarding dogs and reactions to Rimadyl. I have also included links to some holistic sites. Kidneys play an important role in the body by filtering out the toxins in the blood. As the kidney is damaged it looses the ability to filter these toxins which can slowly build-up and poison the body. The kidneys remove these toxins in the dog's urine. Therefore, it is very important that your dog has access to lots of water and is hydrated to flush the system. Diet also plays an important role in the health of kidneys. I have heard differing opinions about whether the diet should be high in protein or low in protein (recipe link below). It is said that diets low in protein are better because they reduce the toxin build-up in the blood stream. Ask your vet about prescription kidney diets available. Vitamin supplements are also important because they replace those lost in increased urine flow. Below are holistic supplements that may support kidney function (always check with your vet before changing or adding new treatments):

Body Tissues & Organs - Vitamin C, Magnesium, Sodium, Beta Carotene, Feverfew, Yucca, Grapeseed

http://www.pfizer.com/ah/mypet/mydog/dhealth/dripkg.html

http://www.srdogs.com/Pages/rimadylfaqs.html

http://www.holisticpetsecrets.com/vitamins_and_herbs_for_dogs.htm

http://www.petmedicinechest.com/canine/liver.asp

http://www.geocities.com/Vienna/Opera/2167/ (dietary management & recipes)

Our information is provided as a resource and is not intended to replace veterinary care, advice or treatment. Your first resource should always be your veterinarian. We are not affiliated with any of the above sites and do not imply anything about their products or information.