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Disclaimer:  Petinfo4u.com is provided as a free pet care resource and is not intended to replace veterinary care, advice or treatment.  Your first resource should always be your veterinarian. 

Copyright Petinfo4u.com 1999-2012

 

 

 

 

Click on a topic below to see our archived questions: 

EXOTIC

Your veterinarian should be your first source of care and medical information.  As with all medical cases, check with your veterinarian before changing any medical treatments.  This information is meant as a resource, not as a treatment, diagnosis or replacement of veterinary advice.

Sugar Glider Feeding, Sounds and more

Sugar Glider Dominance & Introductions

Sugar Glider Colors

Sugar Glider Diets

Sugar Glider Bonding Links

Sugar Glider Urine

Hedgehog Cage & Food

Bonding Issues

Ferret Wax in Hair

Sugar Glider Dehydrated

 

 

Sugar Glider Dehydrated

is there anything we can do for a dehydrated sugar glider?
we think our 9 month old my have gotten dehydrated...

Sugar Glider Response

We are not veterinarians and cannot give veterinary advice, care or treatment.  Our information is provided as a resource.  Your first resource should always be your veterinarian.
 
Please take your glider to a vet as soon as possible.  Dehydration in a sugar glider is life threatening.  Once you have noticed the symptoms of dehydration such as lethargy, can't hang on, diarrhea, not eating or drinking, then your glider is already very sick. 
 
In the meantime, immediately start giving your glider water from a clean eye dropper.  You can also try pedialite or gatorade.
 
Below is a link with information on gliders and a recipe I copied from their site:
 
A 'chicken soup' remedy we developed that has worked for us and others (until you can get ahold of your veterinarian) for a depressed sugar glider with diarrhea is: 1 part ProSobee human infant formula, 1 part Pedialite or Gatorade, 1 part fruit flavored low fat yogurt, 1 part Gerber Baby Rice cereal with or without banana. Mix and give one to two teaspoons in a separate container up to twice a day with regular diet.
 
Let us know how he is doing. 

 

 

Ferret Wax in Hair - My ferrett knocked over a candle and got wax on himself he is ok but what is the best way to get the wax out of his fur?
 
Ferret Wax in Hair Response - I am glad to hear your ferret is doing ok.  Candle wax is fast becoming the number one cause of burns to family pets.  Our suggestion is to slowly warm the wax with a hair dryer on its lowest setting (be sure not to burn your ferret) and then comb out the pliable wax.  To get rid on any residue, try rubbing a warm wet cloth against the hair and then brush to remove excess. 
 
Let us know if this works. 

December 31, 2000 Bonding Issues - Maybe I can explain my situation to you and see if you can help. initially when I got Nigel (my first male SG) we were making quite a good progress in
bonding, until it starts to get lonely, so I got Amber (my next female SG).
Nigel is about 1 year old, and Amber is about 5 months old. Basically Nigel
has a very soft and gentle nature, but Amber is a bit more aggressive and it
bites a lot. Surprisingly Amber explores a lot, and Nigel is a bit more
homely. But recently I felt that the bond between me and Nigel is drifting
apart, and he is starting to bite! In the past, when he hide under my table,
he would come out when I call him, but now he would ignore, and in a few
occasion, I had to grab him out. Is there anywhere I can reverse the bad relationship with Nigel, and improve the relationship with Amber? Also they are starting to coming out of
the pouch when I fall asleep. Are they avoiding me? Is there anyway I can
get htme to come out earlier so that I can spend more time with them? I have
to work in the morning (I have to wake up at 7am in the morning everyday)
therefore I can't afford to stay up too late into the night. I hope with
your experience, you are able to advice me on what I should do. Thanks.

Bonding Issues Response - I realize that you are having trouble with continuing the bonding process with your Nigel and Amber.  I believe Amber's problem is mostly related to
her age.  A glider reaches sexual maturity around 6 months of age and it is
a well documented fact that as they reach maturity they become more nippy.
I am not an expert in the area of sugar gliders but have basic knowledge.  I
am trying to find you as much information as I can relating to the bonding
process.  The following paragraph I found on a site that sells glider cages.
Apparently this is a common problem and may be something that has to be
continually worked on.

"For continuing the bonding process with older gliders, we recommend that
you attach a cage pouch to the door. When the door tilts out towards you
your glider is right there ready for a treat or to be scooped into your
hand."


http://www.animalnetwork.com/critters/profiles/sugarglider/hndl.asp

Do you keep your sugar gliders with you during the day?  Can they be carried
with you in a fanny pack or pouch in a pocket during the day while they
sleep?   Bonding can continue even when they are sleeping.  When you are
home you should try the idea at the link above about using two t-shirts to
carry them around.  Obviously they are not babies so you could carry them
around most of the day.  This will allow you to spend time with them (in
between their naps) and allow them to bond more completely.   I have also
read that as they get older their habits can change as far as sleeping and
they may wake up earlier.  I have also read that establishing a regular
routine (just like children) makes them more secure and trust you more.  Try
this link


How are Nigel and Amber getting along these days?  Have things settled down?
Are you better able to understand all their funny sounds?

It sounds as if they have a loving home so time and patience should work.
Let me know how it is going.  Debra  Petinfo4u


Deceber 10, 2000 Hedgehog cage & food - My mother brought home an entertainment center that she didn't want to throw away so I am making a hedgehog cage out of half of it. The area is
27x19x24 inches. I am having a little trouble with heat though. My room hets pretty
cold. Like 70 in the day and 60 at night. I know with my snakes I use
basking lights to increase air temperature. i was wondering if I could do
this with the hedgehog also. I would have it thermostatically controlled.
I was going to cut a hole in the top and install the light up there. The
hedgehog won't be able to reach it.  I know they are nocturnal but the
need a light cycle to right? I was also thinking about placing a heat mat on
the bottom of the cage but I am not sure that would make enough heat.
Also the food. What brand of cat food should I use. And what should I mix
it with if I can't get crickets or mealworms.

Hedgehog cage & food response - 

Hedgehogs like temperature ranges from about 70 degrees to 85 degrees, therefore we recommend an under tank heater (usually found in the reptile department).  The under-tank heater should only cover half of the cage so that your hedgehog can get away from the heat source if necessary.  Be sure that you cover the heater with repti-turf.  Any other substrate is too thick and does not allow the heat to penetrate.  Repti-turf is also necessary to prevent burns to your hedgehog.  You can put the repti-turf directly under the pine shavings.  You said that you are worried that it does not supply enough heat, however, it provides heat when then hedgehog needs it by directly laying on the area where the heater is located.   We do not recommend lamps or other heating sources because hedgehogs are excellent climbers and can easily gain access to an in-tank heater.  If you notice your hedgehog spending a lot of time on the under-tank heater, you can provide a moveable lamp above the cage (outside).  This should be at least 18 inches away from any caging material to prevent fires.  Since you are a reptile keeper....unlike reptiles, hedgehogs do not require the lighting to help keep them warm and uv light to help prevent bone problems.  Therefore the normal light cycle in a house is sufficient.    Hedgehogs prefer dimly lit areas and quiet corners.   
 
You said you are making a tank... are you making it with wires?  Wire cages are not recommended for hedgehogs because they are excellent climbers and because their feet are very delicate and can become easily injured.  It is best to have a hedgehog in an aquarium.   Aqauriums also provide an environment without drafts.  If you are worried about temperature, try to enclose the cage to prevent drafts. 
 
We recommend that you supplement your hedgehogs diet (a high quality cat food like Iams) with a variety of extras since it is known that hedgehogs do not eat dry cat food in the wild.  You can try cooked chicken, apples, corn, rice, beans, crickets and mealworms.  Keep trying new foods several times.  Your hedgehog may refuse one day and devour it the next.
 
Did you find our care sheet on Hedgehogs?  If not, the link is below as well as other useful information resources:
 
 
http://www.hedgehogcentral.com (one of the best sites for hedgehog info)
 
Send us a picture of your hedgehog!  We'd love to see him.   Debra Petinfo4u.com


October 25, 2000 - Sugar Glider  Urine- I just got a baby sugar glider 2 days ago and while I was holding him, he started to urinate nad the nit turned to a red stream...I don't have the money right now to take him to a vet!

October 25, 2000 - Sugar Glider Response - Sugar Gliders have just recently come into the mainstream pet business and  the side effects of that are; there is not a lot of information available on health issues except those that are most common, it is hard to find a vet that is familiar with sugar gliders, and there are a lot of unknowns about how best to take care of a sugar glider.

You head your email with diarrhea but then talk about possible blood in the
urine?  Both symptoms of diarrhea in urine or the feces is a serious matter.
The problems can range from a urinary track infection, urinary tract
blockage, intestinal problems, etc... All of which can be life threatening
if not treated.  Does your glider show any symptoms of fever such as not
eating, lethargy?   These are signs of a serious infection.

You say that you do not have money to take your glider to the vet right
now....did you know that most veterinarians are sympathetic to this and can
arrange a payment schedule to fit your needs?  Call you vet and let them
know your problem.  I am sure they will work something out.  If you do not
have a vet, try to find a vet that has experience with gliders.  Another
resource is the breeder that you purchased your glider from.  If you
purchased him only two days ago, a reputable breeder would be happy to help
you with any medical costs associated with a sick glider they sold.  If you
do not take your glider to the vet you risk losing him and your investment
in him.

Our information is meant as a resource and not as a replacement for
veterinary care, treatment or advice.  Your first resource should always be
your veterinarian.

Let me know what happens!  I am worried...
Debra

 

Bonding Links - HI DEBRA, LIKE TO ASK YOU IF YOU CAN SEND ME THE LINKS ON BONDING AGAIN.

Bonding Links Response - Here is a link that has good information and contains more links at the
bottom of the page on the bonding issue.  Are you still having trouble?

http://www.angelfire.com/tx/facehugger/bond.html  (be sure to check the
bottom of the page for more information)

Check out this page with a message board where you might find other glider
owners with more information and also has more links (some you probably have
already seen):

http://members.aol.com/exoticpets/

 

Sugar Glider Feeding, Sounds and more -

I had encountered Nigel and Amber making some funny noises recently, like hissing, chirping and sometimes a very weird noise like the noise a monkey would make in the morning. Is there anything wrong with them? Also Amber will wake up much eariler than Nigel at about 8 pm and She is very active, but Nigel wakes up at only about 1 am. Is Nigel sick when he wakes up later? And Sugar Gliders are banned in Singapore, therefore it is very hard to get a Vet to treat them. I think I will need to treat them myself. I'm not sure how you can help. I had bought a book (Sugar Glider: A Complete Pet Owner's Manual) by Caroline MacPherson, recently, but the book is not comprehensive enough. There isn't any other books on Sugar Gliders available in Singapore. Is there any book (thicker ones) from your side that you think might be good for me?

Response -

Just thought I'd send you this link with the noises a glider makes that you can download.   It gives you great examples of how they sound.  Are any of the sounds similar to a sneeze or snort?  This may be their way of asking each other to keep their distance.  As far as Nigel sleeping more than Amber, if it is normal for him to sleep longer than he is probably ok.  Did he sleep until 1:00 before Amber?  If this is a new occurence that has started recently, then he may be sick.  My recommendation if you do not have access to a vet is to call one at the links I sent your previously that listed sugar glider vets and I am sure they will be happy to answer any questions.  I cannot give veterinary advice or treatment.  We can only provide resource information.
 
Sounds:
 
 
Video link:
 
 

Debra  Petinfo4u.com

 

Sugar Glider Dominance - HI, I'M GETTING A BABY FEMALE GLIDER TONITE, HOW DO I INTRODUCE HER TO NIGEL? HELP! REGARDS DANIEL

Response - I hope that the link information I send you is helpful.  As with any pet
introduction, it should be done slowly and with safety of your gliders in
mind.  Since gliders are territorial and males will mark their territory, be
sure to clean everything and change bedding material to reduce his scent.
If you can, it is probably best to introduce them in seperate living
quarters for the first couple of days (being male and female they may take
to each other immediately).  If you are housing them in the same cage,
remember the male is the dominant one and may not let her feed or sleep.
Provide seperate food and water bowls and sleeping quarters.  Have towels
ready to seperate them in case of a fight.

Send us some pictures for our Pet Pictures page!  Hope all goes well,

More - Do you know if your gliders are wild caught or hand-fed?  This can make a difference in the bonding experience.  Wild caught gliders obviously take more time to bond.  As you have mentioned in the past, your glider has a brownish color, this is an indication of a wild caught glider because they get the brownish coloring from the trees they lived in.  This color will possibily disappear over time.  As with all pets and people, they all have distinct personalities.  Some gliders can bond in a couple of days and some may take months.  The key is patience and not to give up.   If you have the time, it is recommended that you spend at least 4 hours per day handling your gliders.  The more time and handling you spend the quicker the bonding process. 
 
I have read that they are very sensitive to smells.  She may be biting you if you have the smell of your other glider on your hands or perhaps another pet smell in the household.  Try washing your hands thoroughly before handling her.   Keep in mind that they also do not like strong smells such as flowery soaps etc..try using a fragrance free soap.  Another idea is to rub whatever she sleeps in on your hands before handling her so that you smell like her. 
 
Biting can also be related to reaching maturity.  Gliders tend to more nippy as they reach sexual maturity.  
 
I have always read that the male gliders are the dominant family members.  However, as with most animal species it can also be related to age.  If your male glider has not reached sexual maturity yet, she may have decided she is older, she is wiser and stronger!  It may change over time as your male get used to the situation.
 
 

 

Sugar Glider Colors - HI DEBRA, I MANAGED TO BUY A BOTTLE OF REPTICAL FROM ONE OF THE LOCAL
SUPPLIER. BUT THANKS FOR HELPING. I NEED TO ASK YOU SOMETHING, I SAW A BABY
GLIDER RECENTLY AND IT'S COLOR IS LIGHT GREY, BUT NIGEL IS BROWNISH GREY. IS
HE A WILD ONE OR ITS NORMAL? REGARDS DANIEL

Response - Gliders come in a variety of colors such as Blonde, Sable (brownish grey)
and Grey, however, there are also albinos which are rare.  Their colors can
range from light to dark which I read may be related to their diets.



 

Sugar Glider Diets -

Sorry about the confusion, I was on vacation when I got your earlier emails.  The cat food you pick should be a premium quality such as Iams, etc.   Sugar gliders need as much nutrients as possible so steer away from the generic or more commercial brands.  It is important that you also supplement his diet with vitamins.  You can get reptile spray vitamins in the reptile section at your pet store.  Spray on his favorite food once per week. 
 
Below are links to sites that I think have great receipes for gliders and other information:
 
http://www.angelfire.com/nb/sugarglider/dietc.html (another diet page with lots of background)
 
http://www.skinhorse.net/gliders/links/ (lots of link information for gliders)
 
It is not recommended to have two males living together.  The males are always fighting for dominance.  When there are males and females it is common for the male to eat first and the female to eat later in the night and steal food.  If there were two males together eating time might become a problem and actually have one glider starve.  It is usually recommended to have two females together, but of course a male and female are fine too.  Just be sure to always have enough food available for the female.