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2007, 2008

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Ball Python

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Owner Review - Information supplied by Boanet

Royal or Ball Python (python regius). From the image, you can see why they are commonly called ball pythons. When a ball python is threatened, it takes a defensive posture by curling itself up in a ball while hiding it's head inside of the ball. A beautiful snake with solid markings ranging from greenish gold, and black. They are usually extremely docile. From what I've seen, the ball python has become the most collected snake in the trade. Unfortunately, many choose this snake for their first snake without realizing the extreme care that goes into one of these animals. Many Balls are wild caught, infested with many parasites, and will almost always be very bad feeders when they arrive at their final destination. the first time buyer does not realize what he or she has bought. They do not understand that as soon as they get their new ball that they need veterinary care to rid these animals of the many parasites that they are more likely than not, harboring. That $15 - $60 that the buyer has spent will easily double, triple, or more when the wild caught ball acclimates, if it ever acclimates.  If you want a ball python, get a hatchling or juvenile that has been captive bred. Not only will they acclimate, but they will be good feeders. After a while their feeding habits will get a little unpredictable, but still better than a wild caught animal. Also, they will not go into the defensive position as much as a wild caught one will. It is my wish that the ball python have some restrictions placed upon it as an imported snake.

Size

Adult ball pythons will grow up to be anywhere between 4 - 6 ft. I've never seen one bigger than 6', although I'm sure there are some stories of one achieving greater lengths. They also become very body-thick when they are full grown.

Feeding

Ball pythons in captivity are fed appropriately-sized mice and rats at the rate of 1-2 every week (I feed them one every 5 days). This means, you shouldn't feed it a rodent greater than the width of the body for danger of regurgitation. Do NOT throw a live mouse or rat in the cage!!! Balls can be very bad feeders and sometimes will not even acknowledge that there is food in the cage for them. The rodent can and usually will attack out of defense.  When this happens, the snake might just get bitten. ***ALWAYS FEED BALL PYTHONS PRE-KILLED FOOD ITEMS!!!***If your snake insists on killing it's prey, get yourself a pair of tongs ( my tongs cost me $1.50, I use a pair that you would use for turning food around on a grill.  Grab the mouse by it's tail with the tongs and move it slowly to simulate movement.  Don't use your hand unless you want to get bit.  Your snake won't know the difference, I promise! All you need to do is dangle the mouse about  foot away from the snake. Let the snake hunt it. PATIENCE! When it grabs the mouse, let go and let your snake enjoy it's meal.  It is always a good idea to supplement your reptiles with vitamins.  You can find vitamin powders to coat the mice or vitamin drops for addition to water bowls.

Housing

A good sized cage for your ball python would be about 4 ft long, 2 ft high, and 2 ft deep for an adult ball python. A 55 gallon aquariuum works good as well, but all glass enclosures lose heat quickly.  Be sure to provide an undertank heater in a corner of the tank.  A hide log over the heating pad works great to encourage use.

I make my own enclosures out of 1/4" - 3/8" oak plywood for the sides and pine framing for support. For the front, I use 3/8" plexi glass that is hinged, chained, and locks in 3 places. You can never be too careful in escape-proofing your cage! I also put in a hood light with full spectrum florecent tubes. It looks good and may help when you decide you want to breed your snake(s).

Temperature and Humidity

You will need to retain your ball python at temperatures between 82 - 88 degrees during the day (14 - 16 hours) never going over 90 in basking areas, and 72 - 78 degrees at night. Under tank heaters such as heating pads are very useful in keeping the heat up. Heat rocks are ok if you have them hooked up to a thermostat. Other good heating elements are heat strips, Cobra Mats, pig blankets, and many others. I also use a little lighting to keep the heat up. I put it on a timer for 14 hour days. This I feel is a great method because you don't have to constantly readjust your heating elements. What you do is set the cage up for nighttime temperatures, then when it is time for day time temps, BOOM, light kicks on and temperature goes up. Simple huh? Always make sure that you have a spot where the snake can get to where there is no heat source, that way it can regulate it's own temperature. Make sure that it has no direct contact with heat lamps or you may one day find your snake wrapped around a lit light bulb.
I also put a water dish under the heat lamp to increase the water evaporation, thus increasing humidity. I also lightly spray the cage every day and night. Wooden enclosures may keep heat better, but the humidity levels should be monitored frequently. I also recommend that you keep the humidity between 60-80 percent, that way you will not have problems with retained shed or other respiratory or skin problems.

General maintenance

Clean the cage once a week. Wipe down the walls and glass with a mild soap and water mixture.

Fresh water every other day.

Once a week, thoroughly clean the water dish or dishes with a 10 percent bleach to water solution. Thoroughly rinse and then wash with a mild soap and water solution. Make sure that there is no soap left in the dishes.

Every 3 months, replace or thoroughly wash the substrate (bedding, if any).

Every 6 months, Completely clean the cage with a 10% bleach solution. Completely rinse. Replace all substrate.

Yearly, take your snake to a qualified veterinarian, along with a stool sample. Many people do not do this, but in my opinion, it is better to be safe than sorry. After all, you'd take your dog to the vet every year (I hope) right?

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