Foxtails

Food Allergies    Leash Pulling

Neutersol - The New Way To Neuter

  Urine Removal     Baking Soda Uses

Adventure Trips    Doggles

Skunk Remedy     Potty Training

Pet Breath     Summer Treat

Pooper Scooper Professionals

Odor Control     Grass Eating

Barking Problem?     Dog Aggression

Dog Treats     Dog Game    Lawn Spots

Inappropriate Urination     Trash Stealer    

Fleas & Ticks        Dog Litter   Dog Litter     

   Teeth    Heartworms      Tapeworms     Hot Spots

  Crate Training How To    Anal Sacs - Scooting    

Senior Dogs     Bloat     MSM Supplements

 Sick Tummy?       Leash Chewing    

Spaying/Neutering     New Baby

 Hip Displasia      Ear Problems      Foxtails    

 Crate Training - Chewing      Chewing Puppy

Digging Dogs  

 

 

Leash Pulling - Dog parents don't usually like to hear this...but, many common dog behavior problems are solved once they discover what it is they are doing to create or encourage the problem.  Keep in mind that one of the best "cures" for behavioral problems is exercise.  Lets face it, the lifestyle for many dogs is boring...playtime and exercise go a long way to relieving boredom.  On that note...we have found a great website that explains a simple solution to leash pulling and the rational to why a dog pulls.

http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/nopulling.html

 

Food Allergies

 

Baking Soda Uses

1.    Remove fleas:  sprinkle on dog, cat, hamster or rabbit and comb out the fleas! **

2.    Allergies/Irritated Skin:  Mix 1 teaspoon baking soda with oatmeal shampoo!  **

3.    Remove Pet Odors: in pet bedding and carpets by sprinkling areas weekly!  **

4.    Remove Urine Odors:  pat dry, let dry 24 hours, sprinkle baking soda liberally and

        vaccum!  **

5.    Teeth Cleaning:  apply small amount to cotton guaze and gently rub teeth! **

** Baking soda is not harmful to pets.  However, baking soda is a drying agent and should not be left on the skin for prolonged periods and should not get in the eyes.

Neutersol - The New Way To Neuter - Have you heard?  There is a new way to neuter young male puppies without the complications of traditional neuter surgeries.  Male puppies between the ages of 3 months to 10 months can receive an injection (in the testicles) called Neutersol which is 99.6% effective for life.   Neutersol is basically an injection of Zinc and I-arginine which causes the prostate and testicles to shrivel and cause permanent sterility.  This procedure can only be performed by a Veterinarian.

However....be aware and full informed about the downside to Neutersol:

1.    Neutersol does not completely stop testosterone production.  Testosterone is the horomone responsible for aggression, roaming behavior, and mounting.  Traditional neutering completely eliminates these behaviors when related to reproduction (there are other reasons for aggression and mounting).

2.    Neutersol does not protect against testicular and prostate cancers that traditional neutering helps prevent.  Traditional neutering completely removes all parts of the reproductive organs and reproductive horomones reducing almost 100% chance of reproductive cancer, whereas Neutersol leaves the organs and reduces horomone production by 41% to 52% which could potentially cause cancer later in life.

Your Veterinarian is your best resource for information on Neutersol !

For more information on Neutersol be see the links below:

http://www.neutersol.com/

http://www.hsus.org/ace/19195

 

 

Urine Removal - Do you have a dog or cat that is marking their territory around your house?  Need to find all those "secret" spots that keep them coming back?  Try using a black light to illuminate those hard to find hidden spots.

The first step in stopping the behavior is to remove as much of the smells as possible.  Black lights will illuminate any invisible areas.  Use the black light at night and turn off all the lights.  Use a piece of chalk to outline the area.  Once the areas have been identified...use an enzymatic cleaner to remove the stains.  Enzymatic cleaners contain natural enzymes that eat and breakdown the stain and smell.  There are lots of products that can be found at your local pet store.  The most popular product is called Nature's Miracle. 

Do not forget the most important step which is retraining....without retraining, your pet will continue it's behavior. 

Important - if this is a new behavior, please make sure there is not a medical reason for the behavior such as a blocked urinary tract or bladder infection.   

 

Doggles - What are they?  Well, to say the least they make a great doggy fashion statement!  Perfect for the coolest and sportest dogs.  The newest dog craze to hit the pet world are Doggles, Eye Wear for Dogs.  Not only are they a fashion trend but they are a great safety device for dogs that love car rides.  Doggles have a shatterproof lens that will protect your dog's eyes from flying debris.  Doggles also protect your dog's eyes from the harmful effects of the sun, providing UV protection.  For more information click on the pictures below:

 

Doggles spotted in the San Diego area:

Modern Dog - 7932 Ivanhoe Dr.  La Jolla, CA  (858) 551-9696

 

Dog Adventure Trips - Looking for vacation ideas for you and your best friend?  We have come across several ideas that sound like loads of fun! 

How about adventure rafting and hiking?

 www.dogpaddlingadventures.com

Bed & Breakfast more your style?

http://www.travelguides.com/search/search.html?pt=bb&q=usa&amen%5B17%5D=pets

A Smorgasbord...

http://www.rovinwithrover.com/

More sites that have pet friendly accommodations:

http://dmoz.org/Recreation/Pets/Travel/

 

Potty Training - We receive a lot of emails about potty training puppies as well as full grown dogs.  It is one of the most common questions and problems.  The good news is that with consistency, a schedule, a key word and lots of praise it is one of the easiest to problems to overcome.   

There are three main rules to successful potty training that must be followed religiously in order to achieve the desired results.  More importantly, make the commitment to make it happen.  With most dogs, it should not take more than one to two months with accidents tapering off after two weeks.  If you see one accident, use a sharp "no" (do not rub their nose in it) and take them directly to their potty area.

 

 

 

Pooper Scooper Professionals -  This is a perfect gift for any pet lover with a dog!   I know I would love to have someone come pick-up after my large dog.   We recently read some articles about businesses that specialize in dog waste removal and thought what a great idea to pass on to our visitors.   Why not give that special someone a gift of a Pooper Scooper Service?  They can be hired daily, weekly or monthly.  It is a great solution for a busy family, a person that is not able to get around easily (seniors or disabled), or those that have an aversion to dog poop. 

 

Odor/Flea Control - Farnam Pet Products has introduced a new product called Fresh & Free that controls pet odors while, at the same time, controlling fleas.  Use this product on pet beds, carpets, and furniture.  This unique product contains Nylar which stops fleas from developing into egg laying adults.  Please be sure to read their product instructions and precautionary statements before using the product.  Ask for this product at your local pet store. 

Dog Aggression - There are three types of aggression including Dominance, Territorial and Fear.  Dominance aggression is associated with dogs who show aggression towards kids, other family members,  and other dogs.  Territorial aggression is associated with dogs who show aggression towards visitors (such as mailman), with food bowls, toys and during play.  Fear aggression is associated with dogs who show aggression when approached, crouch, tail between legs, and urination.  Decide which aggressive behavior best fits your dogs behavior and check out our tips below on how to best retrain your dog.  Most importantly never become physical with an aggressive dog, this only leads to them becoming more aggressive.  They should be rewarded when showing the correct behaviors.

Dominance Aggression -  This is maybe the easiest of the aggressive behaviors to treat.  In the wild dogs live in packs with a pecking order from most dominant to least dominant.  This type of aggression is only shown to people that he feels are lower in the pecking order.  Basically a dominant dog is one that likes to be in control.  However, since you are the "pack leader" you need to be in control.  To gain control or dominance of your dog try these tips;  always feed your dog after you have eaten, do not let him eat near the table or feed from the table, always make him sit prior to giving him the food bowl, make him sit prior to exiting through a door and you should always go through the door first, do not let a dominant dog on the couch, always make him sit prior to joining in family play time and can only play when invited, and do not let them sleep on the bed.   The idea is that you set the rules and he must follow them.   

Territorial Aggression - This type is always related to the dog's feeling of ownership and protection.  While it is ok for your dog to show aggression to a stranger that is coming into the house uninvited, it is not ok for the dog to show aggression towards invited guests.   When you have invited guests coming over, do not put your dog in another room isolating them.  This only increases their anxiety because they are trying to protect you.  Practice with a neighbor or friend having them ring the doorbell.  Use a happy voice explaining "Bob" is coming over soon to play.  When the doorbell rings, make your dog sit and stay next to you giving the "no bark" command.  When you open the door use the "say hello" command in a happy, excited voice.  Be sure your friend has treats when the correct behavior is shown.  For dogs that show aggression with the food, toys and playtime try these tips; only feed your dog after you have eaten, make him sit prior to giving him his food bowl, have a toy box with his toys that he is only allowed to play with when you give permission using "play" command, stop playing the minute any aggression is displayed using "no play" command, and playtime should be a period of retraining with commands such as; "drop it", "sit and stay", and "fetch" allowing you to gain control of playtime.  

Fear Aggression -  This type of aggression is usually associated with a dog that has had a traumatic experience such as; rescued or shelter dogs, abused dogs, and accidents or attacks while on leash.  It can be the hardest to retrain.  It takes a lot of patience and time to retrain your dog to feel secure.  These are usually dogs that are aggressive with other dogs and people when walking on their leash.  They may feel threatened when approached and not able to get away.  What these types of dogs need is an owner which they completely trust.  Punishment only serves to reinforce their fearful feelings.  To gain your dogs trust, make him feel as if you are in control and not afraid.   Keep a "safety zone" around your dog, making sure to tell people to keep their distance.   This will make your dog feel secure.  When going for a walk use the "say hello" command when encountering people and their pets (from a distance) and when the correct behavior is shown, reward it.  He will soon learn that new people and pets means treats and not be so fearful.   Socialization is key in retraining a fearful dog.  By socialization we mean slowly introducing your dog to situations that cause him fear.  Take him to a quiet park, keeping his "safety zone" intact.  Only allow people to approach after you have instructed them to let your dog come to them and sniff their hand.  Do not let them pat or bend over your dog's head as this is a sign of aggression.   Start small, rewarding non-aggressive behavior.  Work slowly towards more social events such as pet stores, beaches and dog parks.

 

Barking Problem? - A dog that barks continuously and for prolonged periods of time has a behavioral problem that can be corrected with time and patience.  Generally, barking problems start from loneliness and can become an obsessive condition.  When barking develops into an obsession, the barking is harder to stop because it has become a way for the dog to soothe itself.  Dogs that are prone to obsessive barking are also experiencing separation anxiety.   

The first step towards stopping barking is to understand separation anxiety.  Obviously, our dogs would like to be around us all day, therefore, when we are gone for prolonged periods of time, they get lonely and can develop bad behaviors.   To combat separation anxiety do not make a big deal about leaving or arriving home.  This means no excited hellos or goodbyes.   Prolonged goodbyes only signal the dog that you are leaving and heightens their anxiety.    Below is a link with more information about separation anxiety associated with barking.

The next step is to break the cycle of obsessive barking and soothing.  Get a soda can, fill it with some rocks or pennies.  Plan a training session by letting your dog know you are leaving.    Sneak back into the house and stay hidden.  When your dog starts the barking, shake the can vigorously to distract him.  Distract him every time he barks, until you are ready to "return" (return when not barking).  You can even have a neighbor participate with another can, or noise maker.   When you are home, use the terms "no bark" when training.   Give this command when leaving the house.   Leave for short periods at first, slowly extending the time away.   Try leaving a radio on or tape with soothing sounds of your voice.

The third step is to keep your dog occupied when you are gone for long periods of time.  Give them something to do when you leave such as a special toy and special treats that are only given when you leave.  Treats should be something that occupies their time.  Try a game such as hide-n-seek with toys and treats or have a surprise visit scheduled from a neighbor or friend (a walk) to break-up the day.   Exercise is also a great way to keep your dog from barking.  A tired dog is a sleepy dog.  Go for an extended walk or run prior to leaving the house.  

http://www.inch.com/~dogs/separationanxiety.html

 

Preparing Pets For Your New Baby - Cat or Dog:  Obviously a new baby in the family brings changes for everyone.   Sometimes we forget that it also means changes in our pet's lives.  They have the same feelings of being left-out, abandonment and confusion.  The best way to reduce the amount of stress on your pet is to start socialization with other children and retraining  prior to the new arrival.  The first step is socialization and involves introducing, playing and handling by children.  If your pet is nervous, try having the child give treats to your pet and praising your pet when he takes the treats.   (Do not let a child handle a pet that is in any way aggressive!).  Progress slowly always reinforcing good behavior with treats.  The second step is to retrain your pet as to who is the boss and retrain the simplest commands.  By establishing dominance you set the rules on how your pet should act around the new arrival.   Dominance training includes making him sit prior to feeding, not letting him on the couch unless invited (this is your territory not his), no lap sitting unless invited, not letting him sleep in your bed (especially if you plan to have the baby sleep in your bed), keeping him off the counters, and keeping toys in a box until time to play (this is helpful when little hands start playing with dog toys).  Last but not least, give them as much extra attention and love as you can!!

Puppy Chewing Problems - - Puppies like human babies have teething problems.   Puppies will have their baby teeth until they are about six months old.  To relieve the pain and discomfort, they will chew on just about anything.  You can help relieve some of their discomfort by wetting a cotton rope toy and putting it into the freezer until frozen.  When they chew on the cold toy it will numb the teething pain!   Great for summer heat relief too!

Dog Game:  Teach your dog how to play hide-n-seek to liven up their day!  Start by having lots of treats available.  Choose one word for the game such as "seek".  Tell you dog to seek and then drop a treat on the floor near him.   Do this several times until you can start moving the treat farther and farther away.  Be sure to make your dog  sit and stay until you have said the designated word.  Eventually move the treat into another room and, even harder still, eventually hiding it in places for your dog to search it out.  This can also be an effective training tool for distracting dogs from unwanted behavior such as digging, chewing, barking, and even anxiety upon you leaving.

MSM for Arthritis and Hip Displaysia -  Do you have an older pet that has trouble getting around or is stiff in the mornings?  Then you may want to discuss the benefits of MSM with your veterinarian.  MSM's complete scientific name is methylsulfonylmethane.  MSM is not new, it is simply a natural nutrient called sulfur that is used by our bodies to promote healthy joints and bones.  It is most helpful with inflammation and pain.  This dietary aide has been widely used in veterinary medicine for horses and only recently have the benefits been realized in companion animals and humans.  MSM permeates the cell membranes of arthritic joints, allowing swelling to be reduced, and pain to be eased.  Many older dogs have experienced relief with MSM.  MSM also helps release accumulated toxins from cells and is said to help most ailments such as skin problems and can boost energy levels.  Because MSM is not a drug but a natural nutrient, it is not toxic and has no affects on other drugs being taken.   Discuss MSM with your veterinarian to see if it may be helpful for your pet. 

 

Dog Litter - Have you heard of or tried the new dog litter?!  We think this may be one of the best ideas in pet products.  Dog litter will benefit most those that have a new puppy being potty trained, those that live in cold climates, and those that live in apartments and cities.  For puppies, litter training combined with crate training, scheduled feedings, scheduled playtime and using a cue word to signal potty time means SUCCESS!  For those living in cold climates, litter training means no more trips out in the cold snow or your pet refusing to go out.  For those living in apartments and cities where potty places are limited, it means freedom from "potty bags".  As the old saying goes, even old dogs can learn new tricks.  It is not just for the puppies, all dogs can be retrained to use the litter.   Dog litter is designed with puppies and smaller dogs in mind and is not recommended for large dogs (we think you could try).   Check your local pet store for this new product.  

The new litter comes with a potty training guide, litter pan, gloves, odor remover, and scooper.   The only drawback we can see is getting over the initial "ick" factor of having your dog poop in the house.  Obviously, the litter pans need to be cleaned out frequently. 

 

  Dog Treat - One of our visitors suggested this tasty treat for your dog.  Take a rope chew toy and soak it in chicken broth, let sit overnight in a drip pan to dry.    For puppies that are teething, put the toy in the freezer overnight.  The cold toy will help numb his teething pain.  Be sure to take the toy away if any parts become loose to prevent swallowing of the toy.  

Inappropriate Urination - This is a problem mostly seen in puppies and females.  In puppies this condition usually diminishes with age.  However, we will discuss the problem as associated with extremely submissive behavior.   Extremely submissive behavior is most commonly seen in abused dogs or dogs adopted from shelters.  When a dog that has this problem becomes excited or threatened he will urinate to show that he is uncomfortable in the situation.    Below are some tips to help you retrain your dog and make him feel more comfortable:

1.  Limit the amount of direct eye contact upon entering the house.  This will keep your dog from feeling threatened or overly emotional.  

2.  Do not show any excited or overt gestures upon entering the house.  Keep arrivals calming.  Wait to greet and pet your dog until you have been home for more than five minutes.  By waiting for the hello, you will reduce the level of excitement and give no reason to urinate.

3.  Upon entering the home, before petting or saying hello to your dog, try distracting him with a favorite treat.  Go directly to his food bowl and put some treats in the bowl or give him a favorite chew treat.  This will distract him from the emotion and he will be calmer in a few minutes.  

4.  If you know someone is coming over to the house, ask them to not talk to or pet your dog until they have sat down and have been in the house for more than 5 minutes. 

Understanding your pet's body language goes a long way to helping the problem.  Learn what makes your pet uncomfortable or excited and then distract from those moments.  

Bloat - Bloat is a condition that is usually found in large breed dogs  but occasionally is seen in smaller breeds.  Bloat is a build-up of gases in the stomach which can cause severe bloating and discomfort.  In severe cases, Bloat can cause a twisting of the stomach called Gastric Distortion which is life-threatening.  Bloat is usually seen in dogs that eat very quickly and swallow air or play hard or run directly after eating. Males are more susceptible as well as dogs that are underweight and then suddenly over eat.   Symptoms of Bloat include distended stomach or abdomen area, foamy vomit, and pacing or getting up and down.  If you suspect that your dog is suffering from Bloat, you should take him to the vet immediately to avoid complications of a twisted stomach which can be life-threatening.  There are several steps you can take to immediately reduce the chances of your dog getting bloat:

• Feed smaller amounts twice per day.

• Feed larger size kibble so that your dog has to chew his food well.

• Do not exercise directly after eating.

Again, if you suspect your dog has bloat, take him to the vet immediately for treatment.

 

Digging Dogs - Dogs dig for coolness, boredom, and smells.  If your dog only digs during the hot months of summer, try supplying a shaded area or a child sized pool to cool off in.  Try making sure there are no odors attracting your dog such as animal odors (gophers, cat feces, etc.) and gas lines.   To deter your dog from a favorite spot, you can purchase dog and cat repellent spray at your pet store and we have also heard of putting dog poop in the favorite hole.   Exercise is a great deterrent because a tired dog does not have the energy to dig holes.  If you would like to try distracting your dog from bad behavior, shake a soda can filled with rocks to get his attention and then redirect his attention elsewhere.  To deter digging with distraction try this idea:

Why not build a sandbox for playtime!  Hide various treasures such as bones, chew toys, balls, and treats.  This creates an "approved" digging spot for your dog and keeps him challenged and exercised.   This can help dogs with "separation anxiety" problems giving your pet something to do when you are not available.  Be sure to monitor his digging so he is aware that this is the acceptable play area and not to dig in some other place in the yard.

Trash Stealer - Do you have a dog that dumps the trash all over the floor and has emergency runs to the vet from eating dangerous items?  Good news, this habit is easy to break...Get a couple of Gatorade bottles tied together on a rope.  Fill the bottles with rocks or bells.   Next cover the contents of the trash with vinegar or lemon juice and tie the bottles to the trash can where your dog cannot see them.  Viola, when he sneaks in to dump the trash he will get quite a surprise, not to mention a foul taste!  This also serves as an alert for you so that you can immediately control the situation by letting your dog know this is not acceptable behavior.  The best and safest remedy is to bag separately and take out immediately any items that may be dangerous or an attraction such as bones, plastic wrap, etc.

Foxtails - Is your dog suddenly sneezing or shaking his head frequently after having been on a trip to the woods, a walk in tall grass, or rolling in the grass?  This time of year brings foxtails.  Foxtails are a type of grass that when dried by the summer sun, the seeds fall off and have barbs to catch onto whatever walks by, like your dog.  These barbed seeds (look like a V) work themselves into the ear canal or nose canal and become embedded causing severe sneezing, runny nose or vigorous shaking of the head.  If the foxtail is not removed, they can cause serious infections.  Because of their barbs and being embedded in sensitive tissues, removal of foxtails usually requires sedation.  Take your pet to the veterinarian immediately if you suspect they have a foxtail in their ear or nose.  The best preventative to foxtails is daily grooming and checking for foxtails after playing outside in long grass.

Ear Problems - Some breeds of dogs are susceptible to chronic ear problems due to the fact that their ears flap over allowing moisture and bacteria to be trapped in the ear.  Symptoms of ear infections and yeast infections are smelly ears, black goo and pain when touched.  If your dog has this problem, the infection will first need to be treated by a veterinarian.   Once the infection is cleared up by your veterinarian, try stopping the problem before it starts by religiously cleaning the ears with a mixture of 1/2 rubbing alcohol and 1/2 vinegar.  This mixture is only to be used if there are no open sores in the ear canal.  This mixture is great for helping to keep the ear canal dry and free of bacteria build-up which causes the infections.  Use a Q-Tip dipped in the mixture and gently wipe the ear clean until there is no more dirt coming out of the ear on the Q-Tip.  The ear canal of a dog is shaped similar to a 90 degree angle or the letter L.  When cleaning the ear be careful not to force the Q-Tip past the angle.  

Hip Displasia - One of the most common genetic problems in large breeds is Hip Displasia.  It is a degenerative disease of the hip joint.  Basically, the socket that holds the ball of the thigh bone is malformed and allows the ball to move beyond its normal position causing bone rubbing and extreme pain. A good simulation of a normal hip is to cup your left hand in a half circle position and ball your right fist inside the half circle (ball has little movement).  A good simulation of a bad hip is to hold your left hand slightly bent and ball your right fist up against your left hand.  The bad hip has a lot more play and movement which is unnatural.  As the dog ages, the socket erodes even more allowing the ball to slip from the socket.  Symptoms of hip displasia become evident at about 6 months of age and get worse with age.  A common sign of hip displasia is when a puppy runs abnormally.  It can resemble a bunny hop, whereby the puppy's two hind legs run in tandem rather than alternating.  Treatment for hip displasia can be as simple as daily massages and aspirin (never give your dog or other pet acetaminophen) for non-severe cases to Glycoflex (a synthetic producer of joint fluid), and steroids to reduce inflammation for severe cases.  There are also non-conventional treatments which include; yucca (a natural anti-inflammatory), vitamins high in selenium, chiropractic and even acupuncture.  If you suspect your puppy or dog may have hip displasia, your veterinarian can do an x-ray to diagnose the disease.

Sick Tummy? - Occasionally we all get an upset stomach.  Puppies can always find something they are not supposed to eat (i.e. plants, diapers, etc.).  Symptoms of an upset stomach can be diarrhea, foamy vomit, lethargy and lack of appetite.  As in humans, dogs need to eat things that are bland, easily digestible and soothing when they are sick.  Try cooking up some scrambled eggs, tofu, chicken or rice.  Limit the amount of exercise and be sure they get lots of rest and TLC (tender loving care).  Be sure to check with your vet if symptoms continue for more than 2 days or get worse. 

Leash Chewing - Many dogs love to take you for a walk.  Chewing on the leash is their way of telling you to hurry up and that their very excited.  Keeping this in mind, try to deter the habit by planning your walk and making sure you are in control of where the walk is to go.  When your dog chews on the leash, stop, say no and walk back the way you came or just change directions.  Reward your dog when he is not chewing on the leash.  If he continues to chew, try adding bitter apple or other foul tasting repellents to the leash.  

Senior Dogs - When our pets get older it is important to maintain their health for their quality of life.  Here are some tips that we recommend to help your pet live longer, happier and healthier.

• Vet checks every six months to catch any hidden problems sooner.

• Keep vaccinations current.   Older dogs are more susceptible to illnesses such as parvo, distemper and upper respiratory infections.

• Teeth should be brushed weekly and make regular dental visits to the vet to prevent tooth loss and malnutrition.

• Grooming is very important in older dogs.  If you are brushing your dog daily, you will be more apt to notice unusual lumps.

• Obesity is the number one health problem in older dogs.  Keep your dog on a regular exercise schedule. 

• When you dog reaches the age of 7, be sure to change their diet to one specially formulated for older dogs.

• Get a dog bed to help your pet feel more comfortable when getting up and down from naps.

• Cover tile floors with rugs to prevent slipping when your pet is no longer sturdy on his feet.

• If your pet is an outside dog, consider bringing him in during cold winter months and summer heat months.   Older dogs are not able to control their body heat as well as younger dogs.

Anal Sacs - Scooting - If you notice your dog scooting along the ground, intently trying to itch his bottom area, then you probably have a anal gland problem.  Anal glands are sacs filled with foul smelling fluid and are located in the anus at the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock position.  These glands were used when dogs were not domesticated to mark their territory.  The anal sacs are naturally expressed when a dog goes potty.  However, in some dogs, it can range from a rare minor blockage or to a constant impaction of the anal sacs.  To combat the rare minor blockage, it is best to feed your dog a high fiber diet (crunchy food, less soft food) to help express the anal sacs when he goes potty.  If your dog scoots regularly for more than a couple days, it may be necessary to got to the vet to have the anal sacs expressed to prevent impaction and infection (anal sacs blockage can be painful to your dog, much like hemorrhoids).  If anal sacs are a constant problem, you can have the anal glands surgically removed.  On rare occasions, scooting can also be caused by parasites such as the tapeworm which can cause excessive itching when an egg sac is deposited on the anus area.  It is always important to check with your vet to determine the exact cause of the problem.

Spaying and Neutering Pros/Cons -

	PROS	CONS
MALE	Tames aggression, helps with wandering, decrease in testicular and prostate cancers.	No breeding
FEMALE	Less mess for larger dogs, less uterine infections, decreases mammary tumors and cancer, evens temperament.	No breeding

Season for Fleas & Ticks –

3/20/01 - Flea Season Remedies - Ahh Spring!  This is the start of the annual fight against fleas and ticks.  Getting a head start before you see fleas is the key!  We have put together a schedule below for flea control as well as natural alternative ways to control fleas.  To control your flea and tick problem, it is important to know that you must treat not only your pet but their environment as well.  It is recommended that you incorporate several types of flea and tick control for the best results.  This involves shampoos, powders, flea collars, bug bombs (foggers), and yard spray.  Shampoos and powders only work for a couple of days and need to be reapplied.  Collars work for longer periods but only work around the upper body area.  Foggers and yard sprays last for about 3 weeks.  Most products do not kill the eggs of the fleas and ticks. Therefore, you will need to treat the fleas and ticks in stages as the new eggs are hatched about every 2-3 weeks.  The following is a recommended schedule to follow: 

Please check with your veterinarian and doctor prior to using any of these treatments around children or when treating young animals and cats.  Be sure to also check for compatible chemicals. 

·        Week 1 – Shampoo, powder, and flea collar your pet.  Use a fogger for the inside of the house making sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.  Spray the outside yard with a flea and tick insecticide.

·        Week 2 – Shampoo and powder your pet.

·        Week 3 – Shampoo and powder your pet.

·        Week 4 – Shampoo and powder your pet.  Use a fogger again for the inside of the house making sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.  Spray the outside yard with a flea and tick insecticide.  Replace flea collar.

·        You may need to follow this treatment for another four weeks.

Other alternatives for Flea Control:  Products such as Program, Advantage and Frontline can be more costly but are very effective and eliminate the need for frequent chemical baths, dustings, etc.  These products work by virtually eliminating the fleas from reproducing.  These products are generally applied to the skin or given orally once per month.   

Holistic Flea Control:  Below are links to sites that have information on holistic flea control.  They use natural alternatives in place of chemicals.  Some of these alternatives include; Diatomaceous Earth, Pyrethrum Dust, Borax, Herbal Sprays, and Herbal Oils.  Another natural alternative for your yard are Beneficial Nematodes.  These Nematodes are non-segmented worms which occur naturally in the soil.  They eat ants, flea larvae, ticks and other garden pests.  They do not harm "good" garden bugs.  They can be purchased at any local garden center.  Nematodes work by seeking out host insects and entering their prey through body openings and emit an endo-toxin that results in death for the host insect within 48 hours. The nematodes reproduce in the dead host and then their offspring feed on the dead host.  The offspring then emerge to seek out new hosts.  

http://www.healthypetnet.com/pamzuppo/ - Holistic Products

http://www.healthypetnet.com/products/care/mist.asp?realname=10020761

 

 

Crate Training for Chewing Problems – During the training period, if you can’t supervise your dog’s activities, you should have him in a crate with approved chew toys.  The crate will help your dog deal with his sense of anxiety when you are away by creating a safehaven.  When your dog is out of the crate, interrupt and redirect any bad chewing behavior by giving an approved chew toy from out of a “toy bag”.  Approved chew toys should be kept in this toy bag during the training period, giving you the authority over the toys.  Your dog will soon learn that he is only allowed to play with these toys on your terms.  The toys will then become a reward for your dog to use when you are not home.  An additional training aide is lots of exercise.  A tired dog will be less likely to have the energy to chew on things.

 

Tooth brushing – The first experience for your care with tooth brushing should be gentle and short.  Start by using a fingertip brush (a short plastic finger cover with soft bristles) with a flavored toothpaste.  You can find dog toothpaste in several flavors at your vet’s office or pet store.  Let you dog smell and taste the toothpaste from your fingers first.  Then gently raise the lips and rub with the fingertip brush in a circular motion.  Eventually, your dog will enjoy this little tasty treat.  To keep your dog’s teeth healthy, you should brush their teeth at least once per week.  It is also helpful to have your dog on a diet with some dry food that helps to clean the teeth.  It is wise to keep your pet’s teeth healthy to reduce veterinary bills as they age.

 

Heartworms – Although no as common in cats as in dogs, they are on the rise in cats.  Signs common with heartworms are coughing, vomiting, lethargy, and breathing difficulties.  The mosquito transmits heartworms.  The mosquito deposits the heartworm larva into the skin through the transfer of blood and from there the larvae migrates to the heart and develops into an adult heartworm.  Heartworms can be very long and usually do their damage by blocking the flow of blood through the animals’ heart.  Heartworms are generally more prevalent in the warmer and moister climates such as the southern states where you find lots of mosquitoes.  However, they can be found throughout the United States.  The good news is that heartworms are totally preventable by taking a simple pill or liquid once per month.  Check with your veterinarian to see if you live in an area that is susceptible to heartworms.

 

Lifecycle of the Tapeworm – Believe it or not but tapeworms are transferred to your pet most commonly by the flea!  Tapeworms look like “rice” usually found in the feces or around the bottom area.  Animals that are infected with tapeworms can have symptoms ranging from lethargy and malnutrition to vomiting in severe cases.  Once your pet is infected, the only way to get rid of the tapeworm is by going to your veterinarian for treatment.  The good news is you can control the tapeworms by knowing the lifecycle of a tapeworm.

 

·        The first stage is the egg.  When the tapeworm is outside the host it dries and breaks open releasing eggs into the environment.

·        The second stage is the intermediate host.  The intermediate host is the flea.  The fleas are busy looking for food and ingest the eggs.  The eggs then hatch inside the flea and form tapeworm larvae.

·        The third stage is the final host, your pet.  This is where you pet ingests the flea in the grooming process.  The larvae in the flea then turn into the adult tapeworms and migrate through your pet’s digestive tract.  From here, the adult tapeworm is again deposited out of the final host and back into the environment through their feces.

 

By controlling your flea problem in your pet, you will be able to virtually eliminate any tapeworms.

 Excessive Licking - Hot Spots: This problem is an area on your dog's skin that has been irritated by bug bites, rashes from an allergy, or an injury.  These irritants then can cause itching and excessive licking.  They become "hot spots" when your animal continuously licks that same spot causing a secondary skin infection.  Hot spots are easily treated by clipping the hair away from the irritated area, cleaning and applying antibiotic ointments and receiving anti-inflammatory and antibiotic shots from your veterinarian.  The hard part is keeping your dog from licking this area habitually.   Your dog may have learned that it is soothing to lick this spot over and over.   Your veterinarian has special collars and a new metallic tape that is foul tasting to keep your dog from continually licking the affected area.   If this is a constant problem, then retraining is necessary.  When you are able to be near your dog, leash him and have him next to you at all times.  It is important to have treats or toys available so that you can redirect any bad behavior.  If your dog starts to lick repetitively, get his attention and give him a toy or treat.  Get your dog interested in something besides the licking. 

 Crate Training How To - Crate training is good for a variety of training problems such as potty training, chewing and anxiety.   The premise behind crate training is to keep your dog in its' crate whenever you are unable to supervise its' activities.  This teaches your dog that he is safe and can count on you to come back and take care of his needs. 

Dog/Crate Introduction:   Start by playing games and leaving treats allowing him to enter but not shutting the door.  When he is comfortable, shut the door for short intervals and do not leave the crate, always taking softly and calmly.  Eventually work up to longer periods of time with you leaving the room.

Crate Potty Training -  This method requires that you keep your puppy in a kennel or crate whenever unsupervised.   Take your puppy out of the kennel only for eating, supervised play time and potty missions.  The reason this method works is because dogs have a natural instinct to keep their living area clean.  When you confine the puppy to a small area ( kennel or crate) he will naturally try to keep this area clean.  We do not mean that you should keep your puppy in the kennel or crate for long periods of time but only when you are otherwise unable to stay on top of their activities (especially at night, at work or while in the shower, etc.). This method is not cruel, as some people believe.  Dogs in the wild live in dens and consider the den to be a safehaven.  You will find that your dog will eventually want to sleep or spend time in their kennel on their own.  

For potty training, take your puppy potty at designated times, about every 1/2 hour during the day, and always after eating, playing or sleeping.  The potty area should be in the same spot each time.  Use a keyword such as "potty or business" that is used each time you are on a potty mission.  If you are consistent with your schedule, your puppy will learn to follow and rely on this schedule.

Crate for Chewing, During the training period, if you can’t supervise your dog’s activities, you should have him in a crate with approved chew toys.  The crate will help your dog deal with his sense of anxiety when you are away by creating a safehaven.  When your dog is out of the crate, interrupt and redirect any bad chewing behavior by giving an approved chew toy from out of a “toy bag”.  Approved chew toys should be kept in this toy bag during the training period, giving you the authority over the toys.  Your dog will soon learn that he is only allowed to play with these toys on your terms.  The toys will then become a reward for your dog to use when you are not home.  An additional training aide is lots of exercise.  A tired dog will be less likely to have the energy to chew on things.

Crate for Anxiety, teach your dog that he will be safe in the crate.  Start by playing games and leaving treats allowing him to enter but not shutting the door.  When he is comfortable, shut the door for short intervals and do not leave the crate, always taking softly and calmly.  Eventually work up to longer periods of time with you leaving the room.