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Rough Green Snake
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The picture on the left is a picture of our Rough Green Snake in the grass of our backyard.
Caring For Your New Green Snake
Essential Care Items:
The beautiful rough green snake may just be a perfect starter snake and are good for older children. Their bright coloration of neon green with a pale yellow underbelly make them perfectly camouflaged in their native environment of grass and small shrubs where they hunt for food. These snakes are native to southeastern areas of the United States. They are small, inexpensive, exciting to watch feed, tame easily, and fun! These gentle snakes do not bite and have no teeth. Rough green snakes are pencil thin and do not get much thicker. They can reach a size of about 2 - 3 feet. They are diurnal; meaning that they are active during the day and early evening when they feed. Visit our Advanced Snake Care tips.
Our observations - Our snake "Zoe" is a little timid but does not mind being handled. She hides out in her plant and usually comes out when she is looking for food. We can tell she is hungry when she sticks her head out holding perfectly still waiting for the next meal to happen by. One of her neatest characteristics is how she sways to look like the foliage around her. When we put her in the backyard grass, she sits very still with her head slightly elevated (as if she is a blade of grass) and sways in the breeze. She took a little time getting used to her enclosure and did not eat for two weeks. However, once settled in, she eats every 3 to 4 days. She also comes out at night and poops in her water bowl. Therefore, we clean it daily to keep it fresh. We spritz the cage daily to keep it humid and have noticed that Zoe likes to drink from the droplets rather than the water bowl (it is still important to have a water bowl).
Food - They eat mostly waxworms and small crickets as their main staple, unlike their larger relatives who eat small animals. Rough green snakes can be fed 3-4 waxworms or crickets every 3 to 4 days. Be sure the crickets you feed are the small size because the larger crickets have a hard and sharp exoskeleton. They can also be fed small moths, non-hairy caterpillars and earthworms. Try not to feed anything bigger around than they are. To provide necessary vitamins and skin protection we recommend supplementing your snake with a bi-weekly shower of Four Paws - Nature's Reptile Vita-Spray. Be sure to gut load any crickets before feeding to provide plenty of calcium and vitamins.
Housing - An appropriate house is a 10- 20 gallon aquarium which they never outgrow. The aquarium should come with a mesh top for air circulation and locking clips to prevent escape. Rough green snakes are thin enough to escape if not locked down. We recommend you also put a couple of bricks on top. In the wild, these snakes are often found around lakes, ponds and marshes. Therefore, they should always have access to a shallow rock bowl with clean water for soaking in. The bottom of the aquarium should be lined with any appropriate snake substrate, however, we recommend Repti-turf. Repti-turf can be easily cleaned by rinsing with warm water and can be moistened to provide moisture. Decorations in the aquarium should include some foliage for hiding, bark tunnel for hiding and warmth, and a stick for rubbing against to remove skin. To provide warmth for your snake, we recommend an undertank heater. Heat helps your snake to digest it's food properly. The heater should only cover about a 1/4 of the cage bottom (underneathe the tank). Do not cover the whole bottom with the heater. Your snake needs to be able to get away from heat when necessary. Put the bark tunnel over the area where the heat is located. You will see your snake hang-out in there when it is digesting it's food. Your rough green snake will need some access sunlight to prevent bone malformations. Keeping them in a room that has lots of sunlight is sufficient (not direct sunlight). You can also carry your snake outside for 15 minutes per week. Although rough green snakes are not baskers and do not require a basking light, we recommend providing a full-spectrum light for additional warmth during the day.
Health - Your rough green snake will shed its skin about every 2 months. This is an indication of health and growth. Health problems in snakes include stomach and skin infections that can be life threatening. Be sure to provide a clean environment. Cages should be cleaned weekly, especially after eating when the snake goes to potty.
We recommend you keep your snake in an active area of your house. You will notice your snake is curious about the goings on in the house, especially when they are hungry. If left in a quite room, they will do nothing but hide.
Watch this video and link for more info: