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Disclaimer:  Petinfo4u.com is provided as a free pet care resource and is not intended to replace veterinary care, advice or treatment.  Your first resource should always be your veterinarian. 

2007, 2008, 2009

Home   Up

Ball Python    Garter     Rough Green Snake

Caring For Your New Snake

Essential Care Items:

• Aquarium

• Food

• Substrate

• Heater

• Hide Logs

• Water Holder

• Foliage

• Vitamins

• Thermometer

Welcome to the cool world of Snakes!

There are many types of snakes and a variety of ways to feed them.  Some snakes eat only fish and crickets (Garter snakes) while most snakes eat mice and rats (Boas, Pythons, etc.).  It is best to feed non-live mice and rats to keep your snake from being injured during feeding.  Snakes can require feeding weekly, monthly or every other month.  Generally, the smaller they are the more frequently they eat (i.e Garter = weekly and Boas = monthly).  Snakes can go through a "hibernation" period in the winter where they will not require feeding for up two months.  We suggest that you also supplement your snakes diet with vitamins.  Vitamins come in the form a spray which can be sprayed directly on your snake and also in their water. 

There are lots of fancy types of Terrariums and Vivariums on the market today.  However, if you are just starting out we recommend a regular aquarium.  When picking an aquarium remember to keep in mind the size your snake will reach at maturity.  Be sure to purchase a reptile proof hood for the top.  These are usually mesh with some metal hooks to keep it in place.   Snakes are great escape artists!  The flooring of the aquarium should be a reptile substrate such as; sand, gravel, repti-turf (fake grass), pine shavings, etc.   A great starter is the repti-turf.  It is easy to keep clean and inexpensive.   Your snake will require access to a heating source necessary for digestion.   It is best to have a heating pad under one corner of the cage so that the snake can get away from the heat if needed.  These heating pads should be placed on the underneath side of the cage (never inside the cage).  You can also purchase an inexpensive tape thermometer to be sure your aquarium is a constant temperature. These can be stuck directly to the inside of the cage.   Snakes require temperatures no lower than 68 degrees and no higher than 80 degrees.  Access to water is essential and can be easily provided by any type of heavy bowl.  Most popular are the ones that look like rock pools.  You can make your snake aquarium into a virtual forest with the many types of decorations on the market.  Do get a hide log so your snake can have a quiet place. Another necessity is some type of climbing branch or foliage that can help your snake shed its skin.  When your snake is ready to shed you will see it rubbing along the rough surfaces to help aide in the skin removal.  Cleaning the cage is very important.  Most snakes will go "potty" soon after eating, therefore, clean the cage at least weekly.  This means changing the substrate or cleaning the repti-turf and washing down the inside of the cage.

Your snake does not require any vigorous exercise, however, it will be more tame the more you handle it.  Do not let your snake on the floor unless you are sure it will be safe from disappearing.   Snakes are very quick!  Most snakes are very happy just hanging around on your arm (it's warm).

Most illnesses in snakes can be attributed to a lack of heating or of a regular thermal regimen.  This means keeping a constant temperature of around 72 degrees is important.  Regurgitating food can be a sign of improper digestion due to thermal problems.  Snakes can also be susceptible to respiratory and intestinal infections.  These can be eliminated by thoroughly cleaning the cage on a regular basis.  Snakes can also get skin mites.  These can be treated with a shampoo or powder.

Enjoy your new slithery friend!

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